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got my car running pretty reliably now except for after runs for a while and I turn the car off it will not start or at least 30 minutes. Is this vapor lock? And how do I fix the problem?

You've got to determine if it's starved for gasoline, or flooded with excess gasoline as that symptom could be either. Yes, it could be vapor lock, and it could be several other things. Next time you go for a hot restart, hold the accelerator pedal firmly all the way to the floor and hold it there while you crank - it if then starts you were flooded. Another check, when going for a hot restart take off the air filter, hold the choke valve open and stroke the throttle linkage. If you see two (8 cylinder) streams of gasoline squirt into the throttle body, it's not vapor lock.

If it's flooding (probably the more likely problem if it happens even at reasonably cool temperatures) it could be from a leaking needle and seat, too high a float level, stuck choke valve, plugged carburetor fuel bowl vent or anti-percolation valve, or an electric fuel pump. If it's vapor lock, try the "search" feature on here and you'll find dozens and dozens posts that discuss it and how to minimize it.

A failing ignition coil isn't out of the question either.

And when engine is hot, generally there is a considerable extra load for the starter which then needs more amps. If you are running 6v also make sure the battery cable connections are clean and are the original large 6v size (0 or 00ga). If those were changed, modern typical parts store aftermarket cables are mostly for 12v cars and generally too small. When the starter tries to pull the extra amps thru the small cables, the voltage drops and what is available for coil then is too low to get a decent spark.

The battery capacity could also be a question if it's one of the smaller 6v variety with lower CCA.

Assume generaly accepted safety precautions:

If the fuel is vapourizing quickly from the carb or to determine if rapid fuel vapourization is the cause then:

Fill a METAL lighter fluid can with gasoline. Upon difficult HOT start try squirting about tablespoon full of gas into the throat of the carb. Start immediately to determine if it starts fast.

SEE FOOT NOTE AT BOTTOM OF ThIS POST concerning vapor lock.

This Clipper should have the starter switch on the carburetor and the accelerator pedal must be full down to operate it.

Anyone else here besides me, dislike the accelerator pedal operated starter switch? This design/method eliminates coordinating the throttle opening with the starting process under different conditions of cold and hot.

I recently installed a push button starter switch under the instrument panel of my 47 Custom to by-pass the switch on the carburetor. I was able to route the existing wires and did not have to splice or change them. I left the carb switch in place. I am pleased with the improved starting.

The next owner can easily restore the system to its original condition if desired.

(o{}o)