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« 1 2 (3) 4 5 6 »

Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#21
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HH56
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The latch lever should not have to be removed and I'd be concerned you might be in worse shape trying. Too much force and you could break the glass or the attachment for the latch shaft to the chrome window channel. You can get the lever out of the way by opening the vent window.

If I missed something and you do need to remove it for another reason, the lock lever is held on by a roll pin. If all accumulated grease or dirt is cleaned off and you look behind the small part that actually locks -- not the handle -- you will barely see the ends of an approx 1/16" or 3/32" dia roll pin passing side to side about midway behind the catch. It's approx 3/8" long. If latch is closed, it will be at the bottom just above the locking tab slightly above the rubber. That pin has to be driven out enough to clear a groove on the lever shaft.

Removing the screws will allow the regulator to drop but you will also have to slide one of the arms out of the door at the same time. With it still attached to the window it may be difficult. Be advised there is a large and heavy spring on the regulator. Once the screws are removed you will be fighting that spring wanting to move the regulator arms as well as the weight of the window so take care your hand does not get caught in the mechanism.

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Posted on: 2013/4/1 20:42
Howard
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#22
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John Brinegar
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I did not mean the whole latch- just the little knob on the inside of the wing window . The latch lever closes over it. I dont know if I should attempt to remove the regulator, but thats the only way it can be repaired.

Posted on: 2013/4/2 1:02
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#23
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Ross
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It is not necessary to remove the lock knob. Just open the vent window slightly and the garnish molding will clear both the lock knob and the vent window frame.

Posted on: 2013/4/2 5:25
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#24
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John Brinegar
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I know it should, but I am having trouble getting it to release at the rear, under the vent window. Dont want to bend it, but would like to remove it, as will make it easier to install the panel later.

Posted on: 2013/4/2 9:09
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#25
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John Brinegar
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I finally was able to remove the window frame without bending it - not an easy job. Now to try to get the regulator out - I can see the gears are not turning .

Posted on: 2013/4/8 0:35
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#26
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John Brinegar
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Do you think the arm that is attached to the door will slide out of the groove if I remove the screws and drop the regulator ?

Posted on: 2013/4/9 19:08
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#27
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HH56
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After a closer look and check, I don't think so anymore. Just tried on the 47 and the winding part can't move back into the door so the handle shaft will clear. The winding part is very closely attached to the regulator bar fitting into the channel on the door. That channel piece doesn't appear to be removable so there is no flex in the bars. Not like the later cars at all. Don't think there is enough clearance between glass even if it did push in. Looking at the photos in parts manual it looks to be the same arrangement on yours.

If your door is no deeper than this one, think getting to the clips on your window is going to be difficult. These pre 50 cars have a horizontal bar located just slightly above the access holes. It is centered in the width on this door and I can't get my arm past it on either side high enough to reach the clips. If the 48 doors are no wider at that point, your arm may not slip by either.

At this time, I don't have any good suggestions. One possible wild idea I can think of -- if your clips are the same as these -- is to use a piece of stiff wire with a small hook on the end and a mirror or maybe visually thru the slot where frame used to be to guide you to the retainer. They are on the outer side of window but still reachable. Mine is a hairpin type clip and while I haven't tried it, it looks like it would be possible to get the hook on the round end and pull it off.

One other thing: The screws in this regulator were really tight. If yours are as bad, suggest you have a #3 Phillips screwdriver available. Using a standard #2 I messed the first one up. In addition to the 4 mounting screws, there was also a small sheetmetal screw in one corner.

If someone with 48 experience has any better suggestions, I'd like to learn too.

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Posted on: 2013/4/9 20:25
Howard
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#28
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John Brinegar
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Thank you - yes, it may be difficult , but I am sure there is a way. I have not tried yet, until I get more info. Perhaps someone else has done this and will offer advise. Too bad the channel is not removable - guess it could be drilled out. I'll see what develops Thanks

Posted on: 2013/4/10 1:03
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#29
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BDeB
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Quote:

John Brinegar wrote:
Do you think the arm that is attached to the door will slide out of the groove if I remove the screws and drop the regulator ?


Yes, the arm on the regulator should slide out of the short rail that is attached to the door if the window is out of the way. It is just a spring loaded pin.

You have said in a previous post that the window frame has been removed. Did you mean the channel that holds the glass and attaches to the regulator arms or the frame assembly that includes the vent window and guides the up and down movement of the main window?

Posted on: 2013/4/10 19:27
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Re: 1948 Deluxe rear window
#30
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John Brinegar
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No , I meant the inside frame around the window, guess it's called garnish molding. Everything is still attached inside and the window is in the raised position. Need to get the regulator out for repair or replacement. Thanks

Posted on: 2013/4/11 1:11
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