Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Quote:

I don't know about "quickly" but a method is described here.

These instructions actually work! It might be helpful to all to have them posted in the FAQ section about using the website.

On another note, I've been sloshing through lots of stuff from HH56, Ross, the '54 Shop Manual, and some experiences from Kevin AZ and others, and I think I have found a few things that any rebuilder I choose for my Easamatic BTV should hear about, even if they've heard them before.

I put these notes, pictures, and instructions together that I plan to send along with my Easamatic when it goes out for a rebuild.

I wanted to get some of the most critical things (IMO) down while the stuff is still laying around my desk and fairly fresh in my mind.


1. Compensator Port Assembly
Vacuum Cylinder Cover MUST be in place before installing the Compensator Port. Thanks Ross

2. Reservoir Lid Gasket
The Reservoir Lid Gasket must be closely inspected so it does not block the Relief Port on the Reservoir Lip

NOTE: Rather than to try to explain the how and why of the differing gasket/lid combinations, upside down and backwards, I think the best rule of thumb is IF IT AIN'T A SCREW HOLE DON"T BLOCK IT WITH THE GASKET! Thanks HH and Ross.

3. Hydraulic Cylinder Piston & Bore
If the piston bore is pitted, it must be refinished in some way. Midwest Power Products said that about 50% of the time, they need to "re-sleeve" the bore using .304 stainless. That sounds like one reasonable solution, there may be others. Ross points out that the piston itself can be pitted and a refurbished one will be needed. (Sources vary)

4. Hydraulic "Cup" Seal
If the bore and piston are smooth, the seal(s)? should be able to do their job.
However, the shop manual shows a special Seal Installer (PU-373) that I wouldn't think many people would have. I suppose that, without this tool, it takes some expertise to get the Cup Seal in correctly.

Ross points out that the seal requiring lots of lube, fitting only one particular direction (lip in), and having "a very snug fit."

Might difficulty with these seals be where some rebuilds fail?

The first three I think can be easily pointed out to a rebuilder. #4 however is not so simple, and it would be good to get feedback on that, and any other possible deficiencies in what I've written here.

I'm probably going to close my eyes and pick a rebuilder, send along the information I have, and keep communication lines open... and hope it gets done right the first time.

No need to try to refurbish the piston, new stainless steel pistons are available from Kanters.

Quote:
Owen,

How about the "cylinder bore?" Is there ever a need to "re-sleeve" that due to pitting?


I take it from the lack of other commentary about my last post that is possible that maybe these suggestions are on track about what to look for and tell the rebuilder.

I don't want to insult the intelligence and competence of any rebuilder, but I don't think it hurts to give them friendly reminders. I think it's especially important to remind rebuilders who do many different types of BTVs that they are working on an Easamatic BTV, which apparently has some of its own peculiarities.

I like how this discussion has evolved into comments about the rebuilding process, rather than just the companies that provide rebuilding services.

Comment: When I look at the delicacy of the parts and all the hydraulic circuits and vents on the Easamatic, it makes me wonder if the folks at Bendix thought they were designing a carburetor rather than a brake booster?

Any additional suggestions about what to watch for when having the Easamatic rebuilt would are welcome! (I know there are options to replace with entirely different systems, but there are already many threads on those.)

I had the same problem with mine engine started smoking and when I went to stop no brakes!!!! I was able to use the emergency brake. I hate this system! I am going to send mine off to Kanter in the morning. I let you know how it goes.

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Dennis50.
I'm sure Fred Kanter is very interested in eximination of your failed BTV, as to try to determine the reason for the failure.
Perhaps you should write him a note?

Tom

When I converted to standard brakes, Fred Kanter purchased the old BTV from me for his rebuild stock. The money paid for a good part of the mechanical linkage of the standard brakes.

Would those of u with recently failed BTV's give us some history about the btv in your particular cars as well as some details.
How many miles and years before failure occured.
Was the failure sudden with no previous warning signs such as noise or hard pedal etc.
Some similar detailed history.

We drive our car on a regular basis as we have mild winters in south east Louisiana. I would say we avarage about 100 miles a month. The MC has been in service for about 5 years. This is based on what I was told by the previous owner's son. I had changed all the fluids in September 2012. I used DOT-3 brake fluid. The old fluid did not look bad. This was a sudden failure without warning. We had driven the car to a local outing everything was normal. While we were driving home, I noticed smoke trailing behind the car from the headlights of the car following us. Checked the gauges everything appeared normal. Since the drive to our home is on a two lane parish road with no shoulder (10 miles), I decided to continue on to the house. When I went to slow down to turn on to our street the pedal went straight to the floor. Pumping the pedal did nothing! Our only saving grace was this happen on our way home, rural area and no traffic. I had plenty of room to stop the car with the emergency brake. I was able to slowly drive the remaining mile home using the emergency brake.

I wish Kanter or one of the other vendors would come up with an easy do it your self retro fit dual master cylinder fix?? My wife was not happy about this experience.