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In addition to the rubber deterioration, if it is a stock setup there is no anti-drainback valve. It is a straight length steel line from the end attached to the frame near fuel pump all the way to the inlet in tank. No valves, no filters, one fitting. If there has been an electric pump added along the route then you would have to investigate.

If the tank sat and old gas deteriorated, there is a possibility the fuel line inlet is blocked. Inlet consists only of the open end of the fuel line positioned slightly above a shallow depression in the bottom of tank. If the gas did deteriorate or evaporate it could have congealed into a hardened varnish like material filling that depression & completely blocking the tube.

Howard, thanks for the info. I suppose my line is blocked then - when I started this tinkering one of the first things I attempted was pump the tank empty, thinking I didn't want to try to run it on old fuel. It was empty, so I suspect you're correct in that the fuel evaporated leaving varnish behind.

So now that I've poured a couple of gallons of fresh gas in, will the new gas dissolve the varnish? How can I clean it up/clean the lines out?

Packard1949 - I reckon I'll wait until I get the blocked line issue resolved before I can assess the condition of the fuel pump. There is a box of old parts in the trunk, including what I think is an old set of fuel pump internals - hopefully when it was rebuilt, it was rebuilt with an ethanol resistant diaphram.

As always, thank you all for the help!

-Mark

I had the same problem with an old Hudson that had sat for years. The fuel tank was dry so I poured new gas into it. The car would start by pouring gas into the carbs but would only run for a short time. No gas pumped out of my rebuilt fuel pump into my twin rebuilt carbs.

I sold the car showing that issue to the buyer. He played around using new gas and eventually the gas dissolved the gunk in the tank. Then the gunk came through the fuel lines and plugged up both the fuel pump and the carbs. They both had to be rebuilt again.

To solve this problem remove the tank and have it cleaned and checked at a radiator shop. Install an inline filter before the fuel pump to protect it. When the tank is out you can check the fuel sending unit and fix it if necessary.

Fred, thanks for that, it's good to know the new fuel will dissolve the varnish, and that I need a filter before the pump.

I've done some more tinkering and attached a section of hose to the inlet side of the pump, with a cheap semi-transparent fuel filter between the pump and the carb. The other end of the hose gets dropped into a 5 gal fuel can. Again, she'll start up with the gas poured into the carb, but won't continue to run. The filter has some fuel in it, but it seems very dark, and the filter won't fill up. So I'm thinking I'll go ahead and rebuild the pump.

Now my question is, has anyone used the fuel pump rebuild kit from Max? Specifically, does anyone know if it is ethynol compatible? I've found a kit on ebay for a couple more bucks, and it has a neoprene diaphram - has anyone used this kit? Thanks for any tips and advice on this one.

Another question, regarding forum etiquette. Should I be starting a new thread for each of these issues? Or can I just continue with this thread?

-Mark

I have not used his kit but did buy a rebuilt unit from him as mine was destroyed. They stated that they use ethanol compatible materials in the rebuild.

Give them a call. They are more than willing to chat about it.

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I would believe either Max's or Kanter's current kits are good to go. Many have also used kits from Then and Now and have been quite satisfied.http://www.maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm Hint: if you check out Then and Now, the kits and prices for your car are on page 2, not on the Packard Fuel Pumps page.

U sed it was only sitting a few (3?)years, but how old is the gas in the tank? If it's clear, doesn't smell, it's probably OK. If it's colored, dark(tea), or cloudy, it needs completely flushed out/inspected.
I had a mess in my tank and line. The line was "new" but I think someone put something in tank. There's way too much stuff in there. There was a goo ball in the fuel pump bowl. The only way I could get the line open was to blow it (100 psig) and perculate acetone down into it until full and let it sit. Hook up an air fitting with a relief valve in case it don't clear so you can safely disconnect. I used an air gun that has a tapered rubber tip that fits the flare end. There's some low spots that don't fill easy by gravity once you get it accepting acetone from the top, so drain some out the end and keep adding until it levels off. Once it dissolves everything day or so, blow it out again. T hen flush fresh gas until you get a full stream. I rigged a funnel on a gas line to fill the line. The tank never did open up. Soaking wouldn't cut it. Hope yours is better. Pump rebuild kits for ethanol are ~$60 and easily obtained. I used the NAPA carb cleaner kit(gallon can) and it looks like new and works well on temporary fuel can connected to the line at the trunk end.

Gentleman, thank you for the advise on the pump. Looking at the Then and Now website, I've decided I'll take my fuel pump off and get the number on the flange before I call them up. I should be able to get to that tomorrow.

Jim, thank you for that method of cleaning the lines out. I should have specified, but the car was sitting for at least 10 years (always garaged or in a storage building, however). There wasn't any gas in it when I started working on it.

I'm glad to know acetone will dissolve the varnish and clear out the lines. I've tried to blow 100psi through it, and I get nothing at this point, so they're pretty clogged. I have a question, though. Did you try pouring the acetone into the tank and letting it sit? Would that be feasible? Would it somehow damage the inside of the tank? Any other downside I don't know about?

-Mark

Well, I called Then and Now (thanks, Howard) this afternoon and ordered the fuel pump kit - but it won't ship until Monday. I'm interested in opinions of draining the couple gallons of fuel in the tank, and pouring some acetone in and letting that soak for a week or so, until I get the fuel pump rebuilt. Thoughts?

-Mark

You might let the gas sit another day or so then blow air back to see if things have cleared. Unless someone has a better idea, acetone would be the next thing I'd try. If you do try acetone make sure to have enough it covers that pickup area and then some. If still no luck, will probably need some professional expertise.

No idea on the car's history but one other thing might be the condition of the fuel line. Have you examined it the entire length of the run down the left frame rail to make sure it isn't crushed in some spot.

If the fuel drain plug has been removed recently then probably won't be too bad. If not, one caution is there is a good chance the steel plug has corroded to the tank piece. Use penetrating oil and give it time to work. Either way, when removing the plug, be sure and hold the tank side with some large visegrips or something so it can't twist loose. Tank side is only pressed into the metal so if it does twist loose, there is no easy repair. If you do remove it, I'd find a brass plug as a replacement.