Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Howard, thanks for the tips on the tank plug!

I suppose I should give some background on the car, as I know it. It was my Grandfather's, who passed on in 2004. My Grandfather was an avid antique car collector/restorer/trader and this was one of many cars he bought/sold/traded over the years. I do not believe he had the Packard for more than a few years before his death.

(His pride n joy was his 1914 Studebaker that he spent 35 years restoring to perfection. He was actually at a car show when he passed of a heart attack. His car took its class - he didn't get to accept that trophy. I digress)

After his death the car sat for years in a storage building, until I was able to obtain it about 3 years ago. I towed it from Ky, to FL, and now to VA, and I've finally found a bit of time to play with it.

There is a box of used parts in the trunk, including points, condenser, fuel pump internals, brake cylinder internals, a carb kit, etc. This suggests to me that work was "recently" done on the car to get it back on the road. Of course "recently" is at least about 10 years ago. I don't know if my Grandfather replaced these parts, or if the work was done by the previous owner. I've also discovered that the fuel tank has either been replaced or removed and painted.

A couple of gems in the trunk also include a full engine gasket set, and a NOS water pump repair kit (with newspaper clippings inside from 1953!) Which brings me to another question. The water pump spewed the (bright green) coolant once I got the engine turning over, and will need rebuilt. The water pump kit I have will need to be cleaned up a bit, and of course the gaskets are folded and hardened. Do you think they are still serviceable, or can I use them with RTV? Or is RTV itself sufficient?

As always, thank you for the help, Gentlemen!

-Mark

Quote:
IMO, if the gaskets will straighten without breaking and have not shrunk, they would be serviceable. If there is any question, new are relatively inexpensive and readily available from the vendors.

I think you will need the gaskets because of the small metal tabs attached to the distribution tube. Those are just bent over and lie on the flat block surface. The gasket, being thicker, provides a space for them. The service manual says coat the gaskets with gasket paste. Not really knowing what served as gasket paste back then, on the gaskets which came with the new repro water pumps from Kanter I smeared on a thin layer of Permatex's non hardening Form a Gasket #2A. I would think RTV would work also.

If there is any doubt go with new-the water pump at least my case was difficult and I donot want to do it again if I can help it

Thank you for the tips on the water pump.

I spent some time today trying to open the fuel line, to no avail. Finally decided I'd go ahead and drain the tank. Below is a pic of just some of the crap that I was able to fish out of the drain hole as the gas was coming out. Apparently the tank had a coating inside that failed?

I reckon I should have started with the tank, and will have to remove it for?cleaning...

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Just be very careful, the easiest and best way I found to clean it out is to take it to a Radiator Shop and have them drip it, to clean it out. Tanks have been know to explode with just fumes still inside.
Wes

Sorry, I've been dealing with my own issues.
I don't like acetone in the gas tank, because it's highly flammable and likely a large surface area, unless you want to put 18 gallons in, which I doubt. Acetone has wide flammable limits. Handling acetone can be a huge fire hazard and easily ignites. Do this line cleaning thing outdoors away from fire sources! Safety first.
I fed small shots of gas into the tank, and drained out the drain fitting trying to clear it up. That got rid of the liquid stuff, the solids are mostly still in there, waiting a more opportune time. You'd have to have one of the old timey radiator shops that can boil out tanks, in my opinion, to do any good there. Caustic boil will take out any rust too.
If the lines are plugged as bad as mine and old, I'd just replace them. My gas line was relatively shiny brand new, or I would have just replaced it. It's easy to do, not very expensive, 10-15' 5/16" OD steel tubing, if you do it yourself, and eliminates all the cleaning worries.
Some of these other guys have had luck cleaning/sealing their tanks with these kits, so they can speak on that. I just went out and bought a new tank that was close and I can modify. The cost of silver solder is a bite in the shorts, but I'll have a brand new tank when its done that I can convert to 12 v. w/ intank fuel pump for something hungrier if I so desire. I'll make it look stock for now.

Thank you for the reply - you make a good point about safety. Especially since my car is in my garage, parked just inches from my gas water heater!

I've definitely decided the tank will have to be removed and cleaned, now that I found all that gunk in it. I don't believe it will require replacement; it has obviously been replaced at some point as the exterior paint on it is in good condition.

Replacing the fuel line seems like it may be the way to go. Once I get the tank out, I'll try compressed air on the line and go from there.

As always, thank you all for the input!

-Mark

How much should one expect to pay to dip/boil a gas tank? I just got off the phone with a radiator shop that does this service, and they couldn't quote me a price. Told me to bring it in and the owner will look at it, to see what it needs. I asked him for a general ballpark figure, he said it would probably start at $225, and go up from there depending on what the tank needs for restoration.

That seems high to me, and more than I can really afford right now. Has anyone used the POR15 gas tank repair kit? I see that Max offers the same kit on his website. $75 sounds way better than $225, but of course I'd be doin a lot more work. And Id be concerned about getting all the old lining out...sigh.

-Mark

Hi Mark,

Check out this blog I saw the other day.

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/car-restoration/1937-buick-journal-6-1.cfm

Pack120c, thanks for that. One nod for the POR15 kit.

Any other takers? I think my biggest concern with this kit is whether the "Marine Clean" and "Metal Prep" are strong enough to remove whatever old coating/lining is still in the tank. Presumably, not ALL of the coating has failed - some is still in there stuck to the metal. Presumably, again, an additional coating on top of the old may not last? Thoughts anyone?

-Mark