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Does anyone know the Trico part# for the passenger side wiper motor on the above car. I'm looking for a spare. Perhaps someone may have one for sale as mine is getting rather weak. I have tested the vacuum on my car and I'm pulling a good 18 - 20 water gauge and another wiper from an old ford pilot works ok. I have e-mailed Rob Ficken and he doesn't seem optimistic and says they are usually warped too much to repair. I have looked at my motor for a part# but there only seems to be patent#'s.
I'm getting desperate on this as the car will fail it's road worthy test here in the UK and I won't be able to use it.
Many thanks and a Merry Christmas to all

T

Hi Traum:

I remember when you could get new ones in chrome from Trico.

Then they discontinued the cancel left which on the sedan is the right side.

Anyway, I think you can rig one up from a Model A Ford. The touring car motors are a complete nightmare, but the sedan shouldn't be such a problem. It just won't cancel to the right.

There are also 6 volt electrics. I don't know who makes them, but they are all over JunkBay.

Also, don't forget that periodically those motors need to be oiled. Remove the vacuum line and squirt oil into the motor while moving the arm back and forth to suck it in.

Nothing like RAIN-X for when it rains.

Here's a website for Mac's Model A's. They sell an inexpensive replacement motor that sort of fits, and then a complete system. Maybe it would work on your Packard.

http://macsautoparts.com/model-a-ford-electric-windshield-wiper-system-12-volt-coupe-a17508e12cwb/camid/MDA/cp/FN0H6Y271000067/

Quote:

That looks like the Newport motor. If so, Newport engineering also has some other Ford kits in their new products sectionhttp://www.newportwipers.com/new.php which might also be a contender.

They did have a 6 to 12v power inverter rated for motor use to run their systems on older cars but at the moment that link seems to be absent. If you are contemplating the switch to electric it might be worth an email to see if that option is still available.

There are some Trico motors on ebay listed for 30's Fords and a few are A's so per Tim's comments, maybe one of those could work.

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for all your input and suggestions. I would love to go electric but unfortunately there is simple not enough room to mount the motor without starting to alter things by cutting out part of the frame and that is something I don't want to do.
I guess I'll still have to keep searching around on Fleabay and such places and hope that I find one that works or can be repaired.

Thanks Again
T

Terry, I might have one, do you have the Trico number for the wiper motor? It's usually stamped in ink on the housing.

Don't forget the other old timer's trick of connecting the two arms together with a dummy shaft in place of the second motor.

You can always buy the parts from Rob and see what you can do in the UK. There is the permatex gasket which is old technology. If you can find a substitute material then that might work around the problem. A fellow in the CCCA figured out how to put O-rings into the Vision-All system and got those working.

Attached is a period picture where they moved the right motor over because the left had worn out. I've seen that a lot.

Did you try oiling it yet?

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Hi Dave,
Nice to hear from you again
Unfortunately there is no number evident anywhere on the motor only patent numbers. It is for the passenger side and it would be nice if you had one that you would like to sell. When looking at the operating end of the motor the operating arm shows on the right hand side. The motor actually sits upside down in the mounting housing which of course puts the operating arm on the left to exit through the roof top trim over the windshield.
I hope this helps you for identifying it.

Tim,
As always some very useful tips. Yes I have had the motor to pieces and I have oiled it with some Neats foot oil. The strange thing is that I can't see anything untoward and when operated by hand there is suction and exhaust noises coming from it, however, when it's put back on the car it only goes to mid drive and won't return.
T

If you want to diagnose the internal problem then you can buy a hand vacuum pump, connect it to the motor and measure the leak. It can leak around the shaft, the paddle, or the little directional valve under the cover.

My guess is that if you hold the wiper stationary and pump you will find the maximum leak point in the middle.

The permatex gasket is probably shot and the vacuum held at that point is at a minimum. Permatex is a prewar synthetic so neats foot oil is probably too thin.

Rob is right that the casting is likely bowed because if you squeeze it with your hand it probably will follow through. The middle is also an inflection point where the paddle momentarily floats enough to lose vacuum. So if the casting is worn around the shaft that may be stopping it there. That can be diagnosed by melting beeswax into the bearing and doing the vacuum test.

If time is no object the thing can probably be repaired, but from a commercial standpoint it isn't worth it because when the bill is tallied the result will be a disaster. I remember once Rob did a fantastic on some motors and they bitched to me about the cost. I couldn't believe what I was hearing because if you buy a taillight for modern car you pay through the nose. Of course they always bitched that I was too expensive as well, so I understand this situation.

I remember Peter Tilp had a whole team working on the Vision-All for his Caddy V-16. He said it took 40 hours to fix. I thought that wasn't too bad because that was the first one I ever saw that worked.