Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

Anyone have any opinion on putting a stainless sleeve in a master cyl and brake cyl? And if so where is a good place to have it done? Also wondering about having my generator converted to an alternator and where to get that done or is it worth it. This would be for a 1947 Super Clipper.

Phil

I don't know what sleeves would cost vs a new master or a cylinder replacement kit but something to consider. No recommendations for a place but one restoration shop who advertises heavily as providing the service has been problematic for others who have had some sleeving done. Kanter has had the masters used in 47 Clippers repro'd and also has the wheel cylinders. I bought one of his deluxe kits and all bolted right onto my 47 2106 Clipper.

There is one person who posts here periodically who had his 23rd series generator converted to an alternator using the old case. At last report he was happy with the job. Quite expensive though. I believe there is only one company that specifically converts using original generatorsgener-nator.com/index.htm and that is who he used. There have been several who have used a commonly available 6v Powergen alternator which is in a case that looks like a generator -- albeit not quite the same look as the old 47 style generators.

The downside to the Powergen is the pulley size. I believe the largest offered is the 1/2 groove but possibly 3/4 can be ordered. If you have the 356 neither is wide enough for the large almost 1" belt used on that engine. I am also interested in the Powergen and have been thinking maybe the original generator pulley could be adapted. Wonder if anyone with a 356 has gone that route or had something machined.

Depends on what you want your car to be. If you want the all original as built cylinders and yours are pitted or worn past sealing, you have little choice but to sleeve. The cost is about the same or more of a repro wheel cylinder.
If you just want drum brakes, then go for the repros, because it'll save you weeks of time. But I found some of these had metric bleeders. You can retap and use SAE but risk leakage.
Apple Hydraulics and White post restoration are two common vintage brake cylinder rebuilders. They'll be able to tell you if it needs sleeved or not once they receive the parts. I cleaned up and put the original thicker wagner rubbers on the repros to make them undistinguishable. I had some strange corrosion from wicking on the lid of the master{Kanter}. {Probably bogus chinese gasket material is used.} You can find correct gasket and lids.
If it's driven alot then consider upgrade to dual master and maybe disc conversion. But disc often means can't use the stock wheels.
I tried to find modern more easily obtainable parts to fit but had no luck with fitment but I was redoing a '49 at that time. The bore sizes and hole patterns are typically different, but could be converted if you know what you're doing but may not resemble stock.
Consider as part of your brake rebuild to replace the brake lines and hoses as you'll contaminate the new parts/fluid with rust, etc.

Start over with new parts, cheaper too. I got a master cylinder for about $50 and wheel cylinders averaging about $8 each, exact matches for all, from Rock Auto. No muss, no fuss, and new parts with no repairs or expensive machining. All of my original parts were rusted and sludged beyond economical repair, the brake fluid was either rust jelly or powder after 50 years of sitting.

I agree, where they are readily available I'd go with new wheel cylinders. There are a some, like the late Twelves with the stepped (2-bore) cylinders where sleeving is the only option but why do it where better options exist?

Sounds good will try to find a supplier in Canada if not then will have to order from Max Merritt or Rock Auto. I have lots of stainless tubing I can use to replace all the brake lines.