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My 1940 120 runs quite well but the carb has gasoline on it after normal operation. My concern is that there could be an engine fire.
The carb was rebuilt recently and performs quite well. Could it be a faulty seal on the pump shaft or the float too high?

Any ideas,

Thanks,

Bob

If you're using an electric fuel pump, it may be the result of excessive pressure. Otherwise I'd think the primary suspects would be a defective needle and seat, or a defective (sunken) float. But in either case I doubt the car would run particularly well.

No electric pump. The car runs very well and powerful, as almost everything is new or rebuilt. I discovered the problem after I parked in my garage and then smelled gasoline fumes. I opened the hood and there was gasoline on top of the carb. The engine was very hot. The gas evaporated quickly. However; I am concerned about an engine fire.

Thanks for your concern

Bob

Since the Carburetor was just rebuilt, I would start looking there.
1. Is the fuel line on correct and not cross threaded?
2. All screws on the Carburetor torqued to the correct values?

Have some one watch and look at the carburetor while the engine is running and after you turn it off to see if they can spot where the gas is coming from.
And by all means have a fire extinguisher always handy.
Wes

I had a similar problem with my '39 120 (also uses the EE-16 Stromberg). It too had been rebuilt by a previous owner but would overflow and dump gas out between the bowl and the casting that serves as the bowl cover and air horn (leaving a puddle on the top of the carb). I took this apart and noticed two things: one, the needle itself was a weird round blob instead of a needle (looked like a Grose jet but wasn't... it was just a God-knows-what rubber sphere on the end that may have been affected by ethanol) and, two, the clip that attaches the float to the needle was missing.

I've since replaced the funky looking needle with a proper Viton tipped needle and seat and reinstalled the missing clip. The carb has not overflowed since I did this.

Quote:

I wonder if that could be the new design valve that Daytona is using now which is supposed to be less susceptible to issues common to the regular needle valve.https://daytonaparts.com/daytona-carburetor-float-valve.html

Like better mousetraps, there have been many designs of float valves over the years. It's not the Daytona version shown on the link which is a flat rubber disc.

I don't know for sure; I'll take a picture of the needle valve (I held on to it) and post it later for analysis. It could be that the "needle" (hard to call it a needle really) was fine and that the missing clip is / was more important than it seems to be.

Here is the picture of the "needle" I removed from my EE-16. I didn't trust it after looking at it so it was replaced with a real needle. I don't know who made this or who put it in.

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With the small round disc on the end of the hex piece it kind of looks like it may be a version of the Daytona valve. Does the threaded part have the raised seat inside that the round rubber disc can seal against?

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