Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Thanks to forum replies and suggestions/solutions from readers last summer/fall, I got my '50 standard 8 starting well and running smoothly like a well oiled machine. However, after driving and running at normal operating temperature, when turned off for a few minutes, it will not fire, even pouring starting fluid down the carb, until it cools down considerably. This suggests an elec problem, maybe a connection opening when heated and resuming contact when cool? Has anyone else experienced similar case? I am not sure where to start the search for this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated again.

Could be several things but if electrical the symptoms are classic for a failing ignition coil.

It could also be a fuel problem and I'd take a look at the anti-percolator valves in the carburetor.

As O_D said, old coils seem to be the usual culprit with that no start or intermittent dying when hot problem but I seem to recall someone else having a similar issue not too long ago. Believe his turned out to be the condenser. At any rate, if the fuel checks out OK, condensers are cheap and you can pick up an IC-7 from Napa which is a universal 6v coil many of us use..It is good to have a spare of each anyway.

Another question is how does the engine turn over when hot. Is it moving at about the same speed as when the engine is cold? If so, most likely the coil or condenser but if it is turning over much slower when hot then I would wonder about the condition of the starter and if adequate voltage and amps are there. Electrical conductors increase resistance when hot so if the starter is getting heat soaked or needing to pull a lot of current moving a hot engine the voltage available at the coil could be dropping down enough that the spark is no longer sufficient to jump the gap.

You might check the voltage to ground on the coil terminal coming from ign switch while the starter is cranking the engine when cold and then again when the engine is hot. If there is a significant difference between the two tests or if it drops below about 5v the available spark may not be adequate. A large voltage drop would point to the starter or too small a battery or battery cable, or dirty or loose connections. Any of those problems could be the cause of the non starting.

Don't use starting fluid when hot. It probablyevaporates before it ever gets to the cylinders. Use just gasoline.

Also likely that maybe valve lash is too tite.

If substituting gasoline doesn't help then run a compression check while it's hot. Or try changing coil and condenser before checking valves.

Do the easy things FIRST.

Make sure the battery/starter cable is snug at the starter and battery. I almost roasted the battery/starter cable due to a loose connection.

Thanks to everyone for the responses to the non-starting hot engine. For the moment I am ruling out fuel problems as all fuel components were new or rebullt last summer (carb, fuel pump, pusher pump added, and new gas lines) as well as a rebuilt starter, generator, new spark wires, and new distr cap. The coil and condenser I am not sure about and I will start with the advice to attack there first plus loose connections. The advice on using starter fluid on a hot engine is good advice and had not considered that it may never make it into the engine. I had troubles with the carb several times before rebuild, but if coil/condenser/wiring are ruled out will go there next. Good places to start, thanks.

50Cal

was just working on a 53 Stude, which coincidently uses pretty much the same distributor as concurrent Packard--same points, condensor, cap, etc. Anyway, started well cold, ran well cold or hot, absolutely would not retsart while hot. Went to the magic basement and pulled out a nice Standard Bluestreak coil and popped it on. Instant hot restarts.

A bad condensor will generally begin to break down and make for skippy running before you even notice a starting problem.

Good afternoon...Battery cables should be 00 which are big fat fellows, available at NAPA. If you happen to have smaller cables, there can be starting trouble. On our 1949 Deluxe, we ran a second positive 00 ground cable to the frame and it helped. Ernie

Most roads seem to lead to attacking the coil and condenser first which makes sense and hoping it's that simple. If not, on to the other areas suggested.