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I have some light surface rust on the rear floorboards and trunkfloor that I am looking to arrest.

I have used Rutoleum rust converter primer in the past with good results. I have heard good things about POR-15 but never used it. Eastwood also makes a similar product.

Does anyone have reccomendations or experience with these three products. I will likely use a spray can or roll; I don't have the facilities to use a spray gun right now.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

I have used Por 15 and Hirsch miracle paint. Haven't used Eastwoods product nor any Rustoleum other than the spray can paint which claims to have a rust proofing component.

Por and Hirsch do an excellent job of completely encapsulating and sealing rust from oxygen and stopping it. A small downside is the finish surface is very hard and glossy so if you want to paint over there are some challenges in getting a finish coat to stick. The products are also unforgiving if not quickly removed should you accidentally get it on yourself or on a surface you did not wish to cover. Once it starts to dry it is there to stay.

If you want to paint a surface after treatment Por makes a special primer which bonds to the coating and helps adhesion of regular paint but that is another step to apply. Maybe not an issue if you are doing interior floors but something to think about if you are wanting to paint or reapply new flocking material to the trunk floor.

When I bought Both of my Packard's I discovered the drivers side floor pan had pin holes and rust. I too started looking for a cure hoping to keep what was still there intact and stabilize the metal. After talking to the POR15 folks I used their product and applied it by brush, additionally the Rep told me to strengthen the metal apply fiberglass sheets to both sides of the pan using POR15 to adhere the fiberglass to the metal and use multiple applications of POR15. My floor pan was not rotten nor was it extensively damaged and after my work, and to this day, the repairs are permanent, and the converted metal remains intact as well as the fix. As for the effectiveness and ease of working with the POR15 product I decided to remove the entire carpet/padding/seats/etc., and covered the entire interior floor area and trunk with POR15, that gave me an opportunity to examine the rest of the structure and remove any rust with a wire wheel before coating. Note: Be sure to use the product in the trunk where the trunk pan meets at the rear bumper inside the trunk. If that metal trough has not been compromised by rust your're lucky. Oh, I might add, to complete my quest for rust since I was having new door panels made I used POR15 inside the door down to the interior bottom just because I could. Hope this helps. Regards.

+3 on Por-15. I had swiss cheese for floor pans. I patched what I could and welded up any remaining holes. My welding skills are poor so it was not a water tight seal. I used some fiberglass with the POR-15 as well as seam sealer to fill in any holes. Worked great and is a rock hard finish. I have no door seals and routinely get water inside the car. No rust has come back.

I have also used Phosphoric acid on my engine block after hitting it with a wire wheel (see BigKev's blog) to neutralize the rust and recoated with engine paint. That motor is now outside under a tattered tarp and still rust free where I did the treatment.

Thanks for all the info guys. I need to paint the metal portion of the floor boards, the trunk pan, and some of the channels where weather stripping goes. Sounds like POR-15 is the way to go.