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Prepping the car for a car show rebuilt the glove box mounted Tach - exciting results details later), started engine tach now works perfectly after calibration, but engine had a noise

Ended up dropping the pan and found terribly worn out wrist pin bushing on #3. While I was down there, decided to pull remaining pistons to see what is what. Also, BTW, #5 had a basically shattered top compression ring and #6 top ring was in 3 pieces. Surprisingly, compression was about 115 - 120 across the board except # 4, @65, Squirting oil in kicked it to 85. On the head gasket, I see a crack on #4, probably the cause.

Well, between me under the car and my helper taking the pistons, we forgot to ID piston orientation. Did track rod position and rod caps, but forgot piston orientation
Other than the cylinder number, I don't see any other marking to ID orientation. The skirt on these pistons is split. I would think orientation of the spit is important

Anyone have info?

Thanks in advance !!!

Back to the tach. This car has a very rare factory option, a tachometer driven off the back of the generator, mounted in the glove box door where an optional clock could be mounted. Tach moved, but wasn't accurate and at higher RPM's, tach floated up to 5-6K.
Sitting at a light the other day, watching the tach bounce, looked at speedo and realized, except for the dial, this was the same gauge. Found a speedo on EBAY, bought it. The " motor" of the gauge is identical to the tach, less the odometer parts. Even the tach motor, had provisions for the odo! Swapped the "motor" started the car and wow, it worked. Seemed a bit shy on RPM so took my shop tach, connected it and then adjusted the new tach clock spring. I would estimate its within 50 - 100 RPM now, more than accurate for my needs !

The piston expansion slot to the camshaft side of the engine is pretty much standard in all the Packard in-line engines after a change around the time of the 7th Series, give or take. You should probably check the shop manual just to confirm.

Searching the shop manual and service notes, do not see orientation for the slot !! But Thank You 1!!!

Do you have a Motor's Manual? That type of info is usually there. I'll check mine in the morning.

PS - Slot to the camshaft side, per Motor's Manual.

No, no old motors manual

Slot is toward the camshaft. Question if your upper ring grooves are OK. With that much ring damage, the grooves are usually way oversize and new rings will perish promptly unless ring spacers are installed.

Thanks for all the responses!

After contemplating and debating in my mind, decided I will pull the engine out and get the block decked, cylinders honed, new valve guides, possibly seats as well and see what else may be needed

Question I have here is has anyone used a standard "modern" engine stand to support a flat six ? If not, what do you use?

Any recommendations for the rebuild is also appreciated. Machine work will be done by an engine shop, I'll most likely do all the assembly, including new pistons, rings, bearings, cam bearing etc

john

Boy, that sure sounds like the correct move, John! Then you'll know for sure what you have. Re the engine stand, sorry, I can't be of any help. I just used a wooden 'stand' that I built, but I was dealing with an assembled block, so didn't have all the access needs you will have, putting it all back together. All cleaned up and a fresh coat of paint and it should look pretty jammy. Good luck. Chris.