Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Thanks again Howard. I'm going to do a bit more testing to make sure I'm not looking at another problem (like a starter issue) before I replace the solenoid. I'm sure I can get one through NAPA if I need to.

-Kevin

If 12v, then definitely use a 12v solenoid! Otherwise it would likely have a short life with twice the voltage than it was designed to handle. The starter should be rewound for 12v too as the higher impact of the gear to the flywheel could damage one or the other.

Quote:

I have no idea what was done to the starter in the past. When the car was originally restored years (decades?) ago it was converted to 12V then. The solenoid "looks" original to me, but I may just be full of it. It does have a cap that unscrews with a button underneath to toggle the solenoid directly, if that means anything.

-Kevin

Too late now, but it would have been interesting to see if the solenoid pulled in with just 6 volts.

Power is V^2 / R, so double the voltage means double the current, so 4 times the required heat dissipation.

Quote:
Typically if a 6v starter has not been modified and runs on 12v it cranks the engine very fast as compared to an unmodified car. You will often hear the pinion give a loud clunk as inertia slams it into the stop at the end of the starter housing when it reaches its outward position.

Damage is done both from the armature over revving which puts a strain on the Bendix spring and move out mechanism but more often from the pinion slamming into the stop at the end of travel. The housing nose ends are cast iron and after so many slams they often crack. In some cases the nose has completely shattered. The fast turning pinion also grinds into the ring gear since it is turning so fast the teeth have difficulty going into mesh.

I did more tests on the starter. The solenoid tests fine. I pulled the cover off the back of the starter and examined the brushes and commutator. The commutator appears to have a couple burn marks, brushes are worn but there is still a good amount left on both. I spun the commutator by hand, then tried the starter again. It worked immediately. My suspicion is that the springs aren't pushing the brushes hard enough. Can I change out the brushes without having to pull the whole starter?

A friend of mine made up a simple plate adapter for manifold vacuum port. It is similar enough to the original. I hooked up all the vacuum lines but couldn't test due to pouring rain all day.

The car originally had a hard line all the way around the back of the engine, behind the starter, and over to the fuel pump. It is large and complicated, and really needs the engine out of the car to do all the bends. So I took the easy way out and put a hard line at either end, then connected with flexible line between the two. Not 100% correct, but with the A/C modification I am a long ways from 100% correct.

-Kevin

Attach file:

---

  Flex lines connect to vacuum pump.jpg (139.27 KB)


  Vacuum port and hard line to flex line.jpg (184.08 KB)

I am having a fuel starvation situation. I took the Super out on a "quick" road test Saturday, only planned to do 1/4 mile or so to test the vacuum system. The car died 4 times and I had to have my wife bring the truck to tow it back home.

Here are the facts:
-Fuel pump newly rebuilt by me, no leaks
-Carb rebuilt by me
-Fresh fuel (5 gallons) in the fuel tank
-Existing aux electric fuel pump near the fuel tank (works)
-Line from the fuel pump to the carb confirmed clear
-Car idles okay, but after giving it some gas the fuel doesn't seem to catch back up and it dies. Confirmed no fuel in the carb....accelerator pump dry. No fuel in the line from the pump the carb.

Where should I start looking? I followed the directions to the letter when the fuel pump was rebuilt. I can't understand where the problem would be there. I don't know the history of the fuel tank, but the gas in the fuel bowl is clean and clear. Any thoughts?

-Kevin

During the fuel pump rebuild, did you pre-load the diaphragm as you screwed the halves back together.

Quote:

Hmm, I don't recall doing that. I went back and rewatched the video that I used as a guide, and sure enough he preloads the diaphragm. Well, it looks like I'll be taking the pump back off to do it right.

In addition to the fuel issue, I went ahead and pulled the front left wheel cylinder off. It had a very slight leak, but enough to be noticeable. So I pulled it apart to check the bore and it looks like there are no gouges or scratches. The fluid inside was nasty with large green blobs. I have a brake hone coming from Amazon, and a rebuild kit coming from Max Merritt. I'm hoping this will firm up the brakes as they should be.

-Kevin

Attach file:

---

  Nasty brake fluid.jpg (82.65 KB)


  Wheel cylinder disassembled.jpg (99.51 KB)


  Cylinder bore.jpg (58.22 KB)

The tiniest air leak on the suction side will give you starvation problems. Neither a mechanical nor an electric pump will solve it.

Is the line going to the tank new? Does it have any unions or fittings.

Suggest you merely check your mechanical pump with a vacuum gage before bothering to take it apart.