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« 1 (2) 3 4 »

Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#11
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Pappy47
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(continuing) ...and of course get that blasted oil bath filter looked at properly!
lOL

Posted on: 2021/8/8 21:06
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#12
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Ozstatman
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Posted on: 12/3 17:13
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#13
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Pappy47
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Yessir! Sorry I'm late doing so!

Posted on: 12/4 19:07
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#14
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Ozstatman
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Quote:
Pappy47 wrote:Yessir! Sorry I'm late doing so!
It's in there now, so "no worries". again.

Posted on: 12/5 1:42
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#15
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Pappy47
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Howard, I wanted to update you that since our last communication I have had the Carb rebuilt with rebuild kit from Daytona Parts Co and tune up kit which included cap, rotor, points, condenser from Max Merritt. It was installed by mechanic except for the condenser which was a poor fit with it's bracket. The ignition and timing was also set. I checked the battery & it's okay - the generator system checked okay, showing 7 volts at lower idle and toward 8 volts with higher idle. I checked oil bath and if it anything was way too low so filled just below fill line level. Car is STILL stalling however upon coming to a stop or attempting a slow turn. Car will not stall at first crank and while making during first few stops. But after driving 5 mins or so will begin it's stalling pattern when coming to a stop or slowing for turn. Car will restart 1-3X after stalling but after 4th or so stall will no longer restart. Last two test drives mechanic raised idle substantially to prevent stalling but to no affect. After last stall, did not use accelerator and it made it back to shop with no stall. The mechanic feels we're losing voltage somehow & is checking out the "fire" in more detail as well as fuel system. I'd like Your thoughts also? Thanks as always.

Posted on: 12/23 5:17
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#16
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Pappy47
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I forgot to mention in my last reply that the charging indicator gauge indicates charging but as I watch it closely when coming to a stop, I can quickly tell engine has stalled as gauge will peg far left.

Posted on: 12/23 5:30
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#17
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flackmaster
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Coil.

Posted on: 12/23 9:53
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#18
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HH56
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Intermittent issues are always such fun to try and track down and there could be several causes. If the mechanic is definitely leaning toward a spark issue then here are a few ignition related possibilities. Of course fuel issues cannot be ruled out either but that is another discussion.

The cloth covered flexible wire inside the distributor having a chunk of the old fabric insulation fall off and possibly short when the advance plate moves is a known issue. This issue is frequently found out the hard way when new points and condensers are installed and the wire is disturbed during that work.

Condensers -- even brand new out of the box -- are also known to cause intermittent issues. If too long a screw is used in holding down the points or condenser that can cause some issues.

If your car still has the original firewall mounted coil -- or even a different but still older coil -- heat is a very well known problem with the older coils. It could be opening up when warm and working again after it cools down a bit. You could get a universal 6v coil from the parts store and temporarily use that to see if the problem persists. If you have the original firewall coil you would need to figure out a mount method and how to get the power wire thru the firewall to the new coil.

I can not say if the aftermarket ignition switch might be an issue. A 12v switch could be under capacity for the amps needed in a 6v system and could have a similar heat issue. It could be losing contact when it warms up and something expands inside the switch. One way you could eliminate the ign switch as a possible cause is to in effect temporarily hot wire the car. Run a wire directly from the battery connection on the starter solenoid to the ignition switch terminal of the coil. On the stock firewall mounted coil this would be the terminal on the base of the coil accessed from inside the car. Downside is when hotwired the only way to kill the engine would be by disconnecting the battery or the wire. To avoid having to get out and disconnect the battery when ign switch is bypassed you could put an ordinary toggle switch in the wire where you could reach it and then turn off the engine .

If the car has overdrive and still has the original wire loom with the fabric and rubber insulated wires there could be an issue with shorting wires in the old loom. An intermittent short somewhere in the ign cut off circuit could kill the spark if vibration caused the wire to touch metal or another wire. To rule out that possibility temporarily disconnect the second wire on the coil coming from either the R9 OD relay terminal 2 or the R11 kickdown switch. That wire would be on the same coil terminal that is connecting to the distributor. You can still drive the car with the wire disconnected but it will not have kickdown capability so getting out of OD would be an issue when the wire is disconnected. As far as old wiring goes, even the regular wire present on all cars going from the coil to the distributor terminal could be suspect if there are signs of bare wire.

Posted on: 12/23 10:26
Howard
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#19
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Quite a regular

Pappy47
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Wonderful detailed answer, as always Howard and am very grateful to you. Have forwarded to mechanic. I had bought a Napa MPE IC7SB coil to try and test coil issue but as you will see it will not work. I've heard that a NAPA/Echlin IC-7 will work so will check into that also?

Posted on: 12/24 13:12
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#20
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HH56
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The MPE IC7SB is the same style coil the Echlin IC-7 will be and is essentially the same coil except MPE is Napa's lower cost brand. Echlin is their premium brand and usually has a better construction and warranty along with a higher cost.

For either coil, when trying out or using in place of the stock Autolite or Delco firewall mounted coil you will need to provide some kind of mount. Back in the 50s this was a common issue when replacing coils and there were aftermarket brackets made to adapt the more conventional or modern style coils to the firewall mounting locations. One of those is shown below and they frequently appear on ebay. For just doing a temporary test you could buy a single screw inexpensive coil bracket that goes around the middle of the case or even tie wrap it securely to something.

If you do find the new coil solves the problem then you can look for a bracket or perhaps your mechanic can make something. I am using an IC-7 in my 47 and made a bracket to more or less match the original arrangement with the inside terminal and armored cable connection so everything looks almost stock. The bracket I made is shown below the aftermarket bracket.

Something to note with the ebay aftermarket firewall bracket is they did not bother to provide a proper way to run the wire thru so you are still on your own for that. If you find the coil is an issue and want to try and find an aftermarket bracket for a permanent mount strongly suggest you do not do what others have done and try to run the wire thru the small slot. A few miles of vibration or an accidental pull on the wire and that is almost a guaranteed short waiting to happen.

Once you have run the wire that is currently going to the terminal on the base of the stock coil out of the passenger compt and into the engine compt, if the car battery is still connected in the stock Positive ground configuration the wire from inside would connect to the NEG terminal on the new coil. The distributor and OD cutout wire would connect to the POS terminal.

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Posted on: 12/24 18:35
Howard
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