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« 1 2 3 (4) 5 6 7 »

Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#31
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Pappy47
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William, I just discovered the R9's were used from 1940-47 until the R11 came out so disregard my previous Q, LOL at it.

Posted on: 2022/1/7 20:29
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#32
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Pappy47
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William, thank you very much again for sharing your very timely suggestion on 1942 service letter (re: ignition cut out pps 2-3)- it was quite helpful for mechanic to check the OD relays which here indeed sticking & contributing to my stalling issue. First, On a hunch, once the mechanic disconnected terminal #2 going to the coil from the overdrive relay, it immediately stopped the stalling. This led to the use of '42 service letter in checking the relays. I am happy to report that as of last Thursday, the problem seems to be resolved, Thank God!

Once more, I'm very grateful to you for you kind suggestion!

Jeff

Posted on: 2022/1/16 16:57
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#33
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Pappy47
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Howard, I wanted to get back to you to report that as of last Thursday, my stalling issues seems licked, Thank God! The mechanic was able to service the sticking over drive relays with guidance from pps 2-3 in the 1942 service letter on "ignition cut out." Your detailed explanation you provided in your last email was most helpful in resolving this chronic issue. Also, the kickdown also seems to be working just fine so far.

How did you acquire such an extensive knowledge about Packards - what is your background?

I'm very grateful.

Jeff

Posted on: 2022/1/16 17:09
Pappy47
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#34
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HH56
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Jeff, thanks for the kind words and glad to hear your car and the OD in particular is starting to co-operate. The original problem did sound like the coil acting up and that symptom of intermittent engine dying only to work again after a restart is a known issue with older coils that get hot or are starting to fail. At least you now have the Napa coil as a spare for emergency use so it is not money wasted. Just figure out some kind of mounting you could do on a quick emergency basis and you are set.

As to what little Packard knowledge I might retain in the decreasing number of active brain cells, it mostly came from devouring tech and service materials and being fortunate enough to have more than a few Packards to play with over the years. Sorry to say it was not learned the hard way by actually turning wrenches -- at least not on cars. My day job for over 40 years was the installation and servicing of medical imaging equipment.

Posted on: 2022/1/16 23:39
Howard
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Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
#35
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Pappy47
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Thank you for taking time to respond to the personal query! Most assuredly your ability to process and digest what you have read and ability to "spit it back out" for the rest of us to consume is invaluable! Please keep that "grey matter" sharp as I have plenty more trouble shooting to tackle, I'm sure & I'm gonna need 'ya, LOL!

Today for the first time with fear & trembling I decided to move away from ethanol free & try regular gas with 6 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil added for my 18.5 gal tank. The folks at Daytona Parts Co encouraged me to do it after I installed my carb rebuild kit and enough Packard friends & mechanics locally & elsewhere weighed in also - enough to persuade me to try it. What prompted this change was the almost one dollar difference between regular gas & ethanol-free.

Posted on: 2022/1/20 2:18
Pappy47
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Stuck Gear
#36
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Pappy47
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(I also sent this last night to your email - not rushing you but sent just in case preferred here.)

Hi Howard, I hope your 4th was a good one with lotsa good eats?

I gotta stuck gear issue (or shifter?) I need help on. Last Friday, July 1st, I was backing my 47 Custom Super 8 out of the garage when the column gear shift lever would not disengage from reverse to neutral. I gently "wiggled & jiggled" being careful to not force it but could not "shift" it normally. Somehow I engaged first gear so just drove it back in. When I press down on the clutch it works properly to disengage the transmission. The clutch was rebuilt near this time last summer and the transmission & OD was filled with fresh Valvoline High Performance Gear Oil SAE 85W-140 per Dave Czirr recommendation. (He told me he has since changed his mind on this choice and now recommends GL-1 gear oil.)

I don't know if this has any bearing or not but about a week or so prior to my attempted drive I accidently popped the clutch while barely moving - foot simply slipped. I had driven the car a few times since this happened with no issues until last Friday. Other than that my car has been trouble free in shifting but have noticed for a good while prior to this that sometimes I have to double clutch to go into first to prevent even a slight grind. My R-9 OD has worked just fine also, overall. I do NOT have the electromatic clutch option.

Before I go poking around under the carpet trans cover plate I thought I better ask you first as I am still pretty inexperienced on this level issue.

[I've read every bulletin & Counselor I can find that might address this issue but really need the experience ambassador with this issue. Don't see anything yet under forum here so much, yet. Still looking.]

Prior to sending this email, I also read your Nov 2019 reply on Packard Club forum page 6 under the Engine, Driveline etc topic to studeranch on his Q: "my 41 transmission doesn't want to go into 1st or reverse"

Thanks,

Jeff

Posted on: 2022/7/6 14:13
Pappy47
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Re: Stuck Gear
#37
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HH56
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Didn't find any recent emails from you but who knows what part of the universe those things wind up in from time to time.

On the failure to move into a gear, the first thing I would suggest is follow the procedure in this thread on the transmission not wanting to go into any gear to verify the levers at the base of the steering column are free and will easily and independently rotate on the shaft. I cannot stress the number of issues the lack of lube to the upper 2-3 lever has caused with shifting. If one of the levers is dry or sticking, the mechanism is trying to shift the transmission into two gears at once. If the transmission interlock is working at all, the least amount of movement of one arm at the trans will almost immediately lock the other one out. Since both are trying to be moved by the column levers the result is no movement for either. With your issues with the other gears, checking the levers is definitely something I would look into soon.

As to the grinding gears, I would check the clutch free play particularly if a rebuilt clutch disc that might have been a tad thicker than the old one was installed. The step of checking or adjusting the free play might not have been done when the disc was replaced. Also look for anything worn, loose, or bent in the linkage that would prevent full travel of the fork and throwout bearing. Grinding could be caused by the pressure plate not releasing fully, a rusted input shaft keeping the clutch disc kind of locked so it cannot move and stop touching the flywheel when the pressure plate releases, or even too thin a lube in the trans not putting enough drag on the gears.

If the levers prove to be OK, the issue could be inside the trans/OD unit. R9s have a spring loaded lockout collar which moves to lock the OD planetary gears together into a solid unit when the OD is locked out or when driver wants to go into reverse. Gummy oil, a weak spring, or something bent or otherwise damaged can prevent the collar from moving fully. The collar slides a pin which is supposed to keep the transmission from going into reverse when OD is engaged. If the pin does not fully move that will keep the trans from going into reverse. An issue with the OD electrical circuit keeping the solenoid engaged when it should not be is also an issue that could prevent the collar and pin from moving properly. A stuck interlock pin will not affect going into first gear though but a sticking lever would.

Posted on: 2022/7/6 15:17
Howard
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Re: Stuck Gear
#38
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Pappy47
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Howard I am reading over the notes carefully in your reply & the thread. I want to start with some drops of oil in the column to get some lube going, just in case. Q: what type of oil & how much should I use? Is there a hole somewhere near the top?

Thanks!

Posted on: 2022/7/7 18:45
Pappy47
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Re: Stuck Gear
#39
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HH56
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There is only one oil hole in the shift tube and it does not do anything for the upper 2-3 lever. A few drops in the hole will lube the selector rod inside the tube and some will run out a slot in the tube and catch the lower R-1 lever. Excess oil will just run out the open end of the tube so I would say 5 or 6 drops of ordinary motor oil would be enough.

The upper lever will need to be oiled separately. You can try to use a small screwdriver to pry apart the lever and washer to separate them and make some space for oil to enter and run down between the lever and shift tube. If it is very tight you may need to remove the upper retaining C clip and slide the washer upward to let enough oil get applied to where it is most needed. I would bet it has been years if ever since any oil was applied to that lever so maybe try 10-12 drops of motor oil. Any excess will just continue down the tube and may even wind up giving a bit more to the lower lever.

Here is a photo of Packwagon's I borrowed from his post on the other thread (linked above) showing the only oil hole and where oil should be applied. His car is a 48. The 47 is identical except I have seen the hole located more toward the side of the tube on some 47s.

Attach file:



jpeg  shift tube lube.jpeg (34.17 KB)
209_62c77f3f035ee.jpeg 307X389 px

Posted on: 2022/7/7 19:50
Howard
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Re: Stuck Gear
#40
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Pappy47
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Gotcha! The arrows are a big help as part of my battle is diciphering some item terms & their locations. Will work on this tonight & give feedback.

Posted on: 2022/7/7 20:09
Pappy47
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