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Working on a 1940 Super 8 160 model 1803 and while replacing the master brake cylinder I needed to disconnect the lower shift linkage to get the unit out/in. All I did was remove the clevis pins figuring I'd just slip everything back together again and I'd be good to go. Not so - the shift lever is now stuck and only moves about a half inch preventing me from rowing the gears. Maybe I moved the transmission linkage and got things out of alignment. Any help on how to get things back to normal? Not sure it matters but the engine is a 1949 vintage which should not matter but I'm not sure it is mated to the original transmission. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Do the easy thing Joe mentions in the next post first. If that does not fix the issue then here are a few more suggestions.

In addition to the alignment and worn rod service letters linked below there are others relating to various lockup issues you might also check out. Go the service index at the left menu and then to the 37-42 year and then transmission category.

To narrow things down, if you disconnect the clevises and rods going to the transmission again and shift just the idler assy does everything work OK. If it still does not shift something has probably fallen out of position in the idler assy when it was disconnected and moved aside so you will need to investigate there.

If the idler does shift the next step would be to make sure the levers at the transmission are both working. Run each lever thru the range to verify all 3 detent positions on each lever are felt and nothing is worn in the detent assy then leave both levers in their neutral detented positions. Not likely the issue here but sudden detent and interlock problems have been known to happen.

If you need or want to do a linkage alignment, Clipper and later units had a hole thru the two shift levers at the base of the steering column where a rod or drill bit could be inserted to keep the levers locked together while adjustments were made. I think conventional bodies had the arrangement but am not completely sure so check and lock them together if possible so everything stays in the same position while you do the next step.

With the gearshift lever at its usual neutral position and some method or someone is keeping it horizontal lift a rod and clevis assy back up and see if the clevis pin will go into position. If the clevis did accidentally get moved it probably will not slide in and you will need to adjust the clevis until it does. Then move onto the other lever and do the same thing. When everything is connected again remove the alignment pin from the upper levers (if it was used) and see if everything works.

Here are a few service letters with alignment instructions and showing the shift lever and idler assy.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL14NO21.pdf

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL17NO5.pdf

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL19NO11.pdf

If the gear lever is stuck, reach into the engine compartment and align the levers. That would be neutral. Then shift from there.

If you haven’t figured it out using the help above, I can get under and take pictures for comparison. It seems to me there is is a spacer in one of the Clovis connections that can drop out and perhaps didn’t get replaced.

If the detention is messed up, I have pix of that, how to get to it and fix it. But if it worked before, I doubt that’s the prob.

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Thanks all for the quick replies and suggestions. This ended up being a simple fix by just using the alignment holes as suggested so I didn't need to disconnect the clevis pins again. Shifts just fine now - road test later but I don't expect any problems. I'll try to attach some pictures as the service letters don't make it clear where the alignment holes are.

I don't post much here but I do read this forum every night. The members here with their combined knowledge and willingness to help are among the best I've seen anywhere. Thank you all for your insights.

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Finally did my road test following the fix for the linkage problem I originally posted. I can shift in/out of all gears but 1st and reverse grind a bit too much for my liking when shifting into gear from a complete stop. 2nd and 3rd are smooth and quiet. Can I adjust at the turnbuckle at the linkage connection at the bottom of the steering column or does a fix require opening the transmission?

A notable Packardite told me that use patience and it won’t grind. Before I had patience, I would move the lever to 2nd gear before putting it in 1st gear.

As Joe said, Packards column gearshifts do need a bit of finesse and deliberate motions. Since it is first and reverse affected, neither has a syncro mechanism and if the car is stopped and transmission gears are not turning a couple of other things come to mind. Possibly the clutch disc might be spinning a bit after release because it is not fully being disengaged. A clutch adjustment might help if it has been a long time since it was touched up or if the clutch disc has been affected by moisture or got hot and warped. Another possibility is the gear oil is a bit thin and a heavier grade would add more drag on the gears slowing them and the clutch spin down. Changing gear oil has helped some with a similar complaint.

I changed the transmission fluid to a single viscosity 140. Had previously changed it and using Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid which did not have any designated viscosity listed anywhere I looked. Some internet searching indicates the approximate viscosity of the Pennzoil is 80W so the jump to 140 is a pretty significant change. End result is much improved and quieter meshing of 1st and reverse. I also added a healthy dose of patience which I'm sure doesn't hurt. Thanks again for your help and suggestions.

Probably 90 would be better for the transmission and 140 for the differential.