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Decided to go with the stainless screws. The correct size and slotted head style were readily available.

If anyone needs those cup washers, I have a lifetime supply on the way to me. It was cheaper to buy a box of 100 for $10, then to piecemeal the dozen or so I needed.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

Is the firewall pad on these cars made of jute with a rigid surface molded cardboard outer surface?

Just trying to get an idea of the construction since none of it is still in the car. I figure I'm going to have to make my own due to the change in the firewall.

Also, does it use some type of clip for retention?

I don't have a lot of points of reference on this car compared to my '54 and since a lot has been removed from the car, I may have lots of pedestrian questions. Sorry in advance!

The plan is to redo as much of the interior as original as possible.

I did not find a mention of the firewall pad in Dar Kuehl's book. He covers other items in floor, upholstery, and top materials so whether he forgot the pad or maybe has it detailed under another name I don't recognize I couldn't say. He does mention the window molding screws you asked about earlier so doubt something that big was just forgotten.

I can say from many pads I have looked at or removed (mostly postwar) they were always pressed cardboard with varying thicknesses of regular jute carpet underlayment material cemented on the underside. Lower end models seem to have a fairly plain finish and the more upscale you went the cardboard either had a glossy embossed grain like finish or were partially covered in carpet. They were usually held by screws and/or push in clips that had a long hooked stem that went thru a small hole in the firewall metal where the hook expanded and was caught on the hole edge.

The reference book seems to still be available on Amazon so for the price It might be worthwhile picking up a copy. It seems to have a lot of info you might be interested in if going back to original.

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For what it is worth this is what the QuietRide pad looks like. The pad I bought for my 47 was a decent fit only requiring a few tweaks and having a grainy finish ABS plastic replacing the cardboard. As much trouble as Stewart has had with their item for his 55 heater though, maybe things have changed since I bought mine. Their 37 pad is expensive so if you can cut and fold sheets of upholstery cardboard and make it fit then cover with some kind of embossed paper or carpet it would probably be much cheaper.

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Thanks, Howard for that reference.

I'll have to make one, as the available pads will not fit my custom application. I just wanted to make sure the pad had a rigid/cardboard facing on it vs being completely flexible.

The center of my firewall will have to have a removable plate to provide clearance for that Jag motor and also access to the back of the cams for servicing.

I'll probably have to make a two-piece pad. One main flat section that covers the majority of the firewall, and then a smaller pad that is affixed to the removal plate in the center.

For reference, in this picture, you can see the "hole" I need to make a metal plate for.

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My dads 36 12

1 inch +or-. Jute.

Not up to going out to take a picture just yet.

Fighting a cold that's trying to get me

I had the same issue as I had to add a larger well tub to the firewall to clear the 327 motor. I made mine out of 1/2" hard felt. It is used in the office world for divider panels between cubicles. Like you, I cut it in flat pieces, the centre hump was made separate and I cut grooves in the back side so it would bend and then used 2 of the same screws I used on the door caps you just bought to attach it to the main part.
If you are interested the material is called Zintra, here is their website,https://zintraacoustic.com/
Bob J.

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That looks pretty good Bob!

Since the toe board is out of the car waiting for it less hole-y replacement to arrive, I figured it was a good evening to sand all the crusty rust off firewall and remove any remaining items underneath.

So a couple roloc disks on a die grinder made short work of rust busting. Then I mask off the surrounding areas and hit it with a couple of coats of black rusty metal rattle can paint.

Looking better already!

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No Jackard progress for the next few days as I am out of town. But copious parts on order and should be waiting for my return.

The toeboard should be here by the time I get back and I can then get that quickly painted and back into the car. Then I can start on getting the firewall closed back up, and move onto wiring.