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« 1 (2)

Re: Head nut/stud torque?
#11
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todd landis
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And, don't forget to retorque at least two or three more times after a few drives. The nuts will settle down after that.

Posted on: 2022/11/26 9:45
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Re: Head nut/stud torque?
#12
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Tim Cole
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Just a reminder, there is a limit as to how much can be milled off those parts before combustion problems set in. As I recall .045 on the eights and .007 on the V-12.

Given old, reused gaskets are working better than the reproduction stuff (no surprise) perhaps testing a solid spacer as is modern practice may be in order.

The surface area on the flathead is twice that of an OHV motor so the clamping force is lower. However, that doesn't explain why those low pressure cooling systems are leaking unless there is a combustion chamber leak.

Posted on: 2022/11/26 10:11
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Re: Head nut/stud torque?
#13
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Wat_Tyler
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Quote:

Rockabilly wrote:
Alright, just to follow up on this, I just did a couple of heat cycles and retorqued each time. 4 times in total. Problem solved. With those new lifter installed it is whisper quiet under the hood and makes the magnaflow exhaust system I welded together sound even better.

I can’t thank everyone on this forum enough for their help and advice.



That's some damned fine news!!!

Posted on: 2022/11/26 19:26
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Head nut/stud torque?
#14
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Packard Don
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As Todd said, you need to torque the head several times until the reading is consistent before adding coolant or cranking it over. Then, after running it to temperature and shutting it off, torque again while warm. I’ve always sprayed both sides of a head gasket before installation using Copper Coat after shaking the can thoroughly.

Posted on: 2022/11/26 20:01
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Re: Head nut/stud torque?
#15
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JeromeSolberg
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Be sure to check and retorque it a few 100 miles/months from now. They seem to need it for whatever reason.

Posted on: 2022/11/26 20:38
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