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So I haven't got the new manual fuel pump for yet it's on order I got the starter back but that back in had it rebuilt so still no spark the plugs are new they're in good shape so what I'm thinking is coil condenser plug wires plug wires look still original so I'm going to replace all those which is what I'm working on right now but my question is does anybody know how to test a condenser and by the looks of the one I have right now it looks like the original one and I'll put a picture in I've seen a lot of different videos and stuff on testing coils and condensers but I wanted to ask you guys cuz well y'all are a bit of an expert on this kind of stuff especially on the Packers and I trust you all's opinion thank you I appreciate it.

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You didn't say what you're working on but testing a condenser is possible but requires a condenser tester, an expensive piece of equipment that probably by now has gone the way of the dinosaur although some automotive electric shops might still have one if they work on older cars. Since I grew up with a grandfather who was a radio/TV repairman in the vacuum tube days, he had one that was not car-specific but it's long gone now. Even if you had one, you would need to know the condenser's specifications to be able to know what the readings mean so better to eliminate it as a possibility by just replacing it.

Mallory used something like that
.look on u. Tube.

Look for 12 volts. He repairs vhs. CD.
Cassette.
Etc.
He has a capacitor. tester.
Because those are what go on those.

Or google capacitor tester.
On the unit its has what the specs should be.

But you'll need to find out specs like don said.

I have that type of condenser you have.
But its Mallory.
And they don't make them

They say to open it and put a modern condenser in and close it back up.

That is an odd shaped capacitor. I don't know where you would find something like that today if it does need replacing and not sure I would trust anything in an old NOS capacitor if you did find one.

Problem with testing auto capacitors is modern test equipment available to average mechanics and homeowners only has a certain voltage to work with and is not very sophisticated. You can test using a down and dirty method by placing an ohmmeter on the resistance scale. Place one probe on the can, the other on the terminal. If good the capacitor should slowly charge up and the display would show a smooth transition of changing numbers until it reached a point and stopped. Speed of change depends on the capacity. Obviously if it immediately went to a low number and stayed it would indicate a short and if it never moved off infinity, an open. Problem is nothing except a proper old style condenser checker can find a breakdown voltage. It might test good at a low voltage and the first high emf surge typical in an auto ignition point system could break it down.

Right h.

The u tube guy fines that out

Tests good ..within specs

But its bad.

I don't quite understand the condenser that you hold in your hand. It's maybe a coil? The condenser in the ignition in a 1953 Packard Cavalier should be (now I am speaking about a Delco distributor like in my car, I guess they may have also used Autolite) is very small and fits under the distributor cap, along with and attached to the same plate as the points.

If you are worried about the points and condensers new ones are available from Kanter and Max, it's good to have spares around anyhow if the car ends up getting driven any distance.

That doesn't quite look big enough to be the coil. I think coil testing is a bit easier to do, it's mostly just verifying continuity. But I have never done it.

Yeah sorry that I just assume everyone would be a Packard but no it's a 53 Packard cavalier

Yeah I mean mines are now Roy too and it just says 36 on the bottom of it the only number on there what do you mean open it up like physically open up that piece and put a condenser in there or a modern one why not just put it on the side of the coil like this one was

Yeah so that thing that I was holding in my hand is a melroy I believe someone just said it was a capacitor it was on the side of the coil with a wire running down to the bottom of the distributor the coil itself or the original one's been taken out and replaced which I still have but and it definitely tests bad the one that was just in there that I just took out I think it tested good but I just went and bought a new one from AutoZone so I know it's good so I'll start with that. I mean I should be able to just get a condenser for it as long as it's 6 volts and yes my distributor is a Delco Remy.

Here are the two pictures that I have in the distributor are mostly the number on it

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