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Re: Vacuum
#11
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TxGoat
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Most lifters will spin. Ones that don't may be gummy or worn. A valve not opening fully or with too little or too much clearance will also not be timed correctly. Too little clearance will cause the valve to open early and close late and may cause valve overheating and could even prevent the valve from fully seating.

Too much clearance will cause the valve to open late and close early with reduced total lift. These problems usually would not affect the engine to the point of having an outright miss, though a tight valve not seating fully might either by causing low compression or by causing the valve to stick.

A light miss under load or a "floating miss" can be hard to pin down, but is most often ignition related.

Posted on: 2023/4/18 11:41
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Re: Vacuum
#12
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TxGoat
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If you have had the head off the engine, did you carefully clean the block and head surfaces, paying special attention to areas where the head studs go into the block? All surfaces right up to the studs need to be clean and flat. Studs and stud holes in the head must be free of rust and scale. A new gasket should be used, and the head should be installed and the nuts tightened in the correct specified pattern. It's best to tighten them with a good torque wrench in 3 stages of about 1/3, then 2/3, then full recommended torque. Then, after filling the engine with water and running it for 15 or 20 minutes at light load or idle, it should be stopped and allowed to cool down, then the nuts retorqued to spec with the engine cool. At that point, I'd go for a short drive of a few miles at lower speeds and avoiding any hard pulls, then let it cool down again and again check all nuts for proper torque. Do any checking and tightening in the correct pattern and do not exceed recommended torque.

Posted on: 2023/4/18 11:49
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Re: Vacuum
#13
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53 Cavalier
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Quote:

TxGoat wrote:
If you have had the head off the engine, did you carefully clean the block and head surfaces, paying special attention to areas where the head studs go into the block? All surfaces right up to the studs need to be clean and flat. Studs and stud holes in the head must be free of rust and scale. A new gasket should be used, and the head should be installed and the nuts tightened in the correct specified pattern. It's best to tighten them with a good torque wrench in 3 stages of about 1/3, then 2/3, then full recommended torque. Then, after filling the engine with water and running it for 15 or 20 minutes at light load or idle, it should be stopped and allowed to cool down, then the nuts retorqued to spec with the engine cool. At that point, I'd go for a short drive of a few miles at lower speeds and avoiding any hard pulls, then let it cool down again and again check all nuts for proper torque. Do any checking and tightening in the correct pattern and do not exceed recommended torque.


Head has not been off...............yet!

Posted on: 2023/4/18 15:58
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Re: Vacuum
#14
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53 Cavalier
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Quote:

TxGoat wrote:
If you are located well above sea level, vacuum and compression test readings will be a little lower than specs. At higher elevations, initial timing settings can be set earlier than spec.

Ignition point gap affects both timing and overall system performance. If your car has a dual point distributor, special procedures may be needed to set the points correctly.


We are at 1000 meters, so that would be enough to have an impact.

No dual point distributor on my Cavalier. I did have dual points on a 66 Toronado and they were "fun" to set.

I have a carb rebuild kit as well, but going to sort out a couple of these other items before throwing the carb into the mix.

Posted on: 2023/4/18 16:02
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