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maybe someone can learn from my mistakes. my 356CUI was completely overhauled. Everything was disassembled. during reassembly i used all paper gaskets with engine silicone. as i now know, this led to the clogging of a water bore. when the engine had temperature problems after the overhaul, i replaced the water pump with a newly overhauled one. in doing so, i noticed the clogged bore. assuming i had used too much silicone, i now used much less. but again the engine overheated. i didn't think i had clogged the hole for the cylinder head circulation circuit again. but i did. i had made the same mistake twice. i noticed this now when i removed the water distribution pipe for cleaning. again this hole was clogged with silicone. now i put the water pump in with just the paper gasket. I now drive at a much lower temperature. conclusion: do not use a paper seal together with silicone.

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Unless it’s for an area with a bad surface that is susceptible to leaking, I use only a thin layer of general purpose grease on most gaskets.

I use Permatex Gasket dressing (thin coat) or copper gasket spray. Neither of are susceptible to squeeze out.

Yeah, leave the sillycone for the bathroom and kitchen. It's way too pervious anyway. About the only place recommended is the aluminum diff covers and you have(recommended) to wait a day before filling, but I don't.
There's plenty of gasket products out there, but most aren't needed, if using a gasket. If it's difficult to align everything I might use a little adhesive spray to hold the gasket and the old Permatex green stuff doesn't harden, and fills most gaps, oil/gas resistant.
Trick is to get the right size bead so the compression doesn't let it ooze out or the edge or trowel it thin first/wipe up.
Teflon will do the same thing and watch those thread wraps too. Leave a space at the bottom so none hanging down that can break off.
I've gone to "pipe dope" without teflon as it seals and works better for tapered threads. Loctite(s) for straight thread.