Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Clock.

How can that spark be reduced when points open.

The points burn.. Tried capacitors.

My copper glue strips work well. Over points.

Lasted long time. Before copper got black..

Edit.

Put copper strip in 2 / 22

Lasted well over a year.. And ran 24 / 7.

It may be that the clock solenoid coil has some shorted turns causing it to draw more current than normal, thus damaging the points. A 6 volt solenoid coil operating in a 12 volt system will cause problems with the points due to excess current draw. If the points were to stick, the coil might catch fire.

Thanks tx

You got me thinking.. So i used a DC.dc buck converter. Set it it 6 volts.

Clock does work. The kick back is not as wide
.
But they clock works. Still has arc

Looks less..maybe Not as hot..

Next will try 6 volts in car.

See what happens..


https://youtu.be/eV4hSljhig8

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A quenching diode across the winding coil and a snubbing capacitor across the contacts will almost completely eliminate arcing. The contacts will still wear down from sliding friction, but at a much slower rate.

Then you put a 1 or 2 amp slow-blow fuse on the clock to protect the winding coil if the points stick closed. All sorts of things can make the points stick. The car battery running down is the most common one. The winding coil cannot take current for more than a second or two before it cooks. The winding coil draws 6 amps, but only for an instant that won't blow the fuse unless it draws current for too long.

Even then, the brass pivot holes in the geartrain bridges will wear out oval within a few years, causing the gears to jam together and stop randomly. You will forever fight that electro-mechanical movement trying to keep it running.

They were cheap. Even the great Packard used cheap clock movements by the 1950's.

Believe me I am a purist and I want my mechanical clocks to work in my old cars, but I have fought and fought and fought. The best you get is a couple years. Honestly just have it converted to quartz and it will run trouble-free for decades.

No matter quartz or mechanical, I wire in an on-off switch so I can shut the clock off when the car sits. It eliminates draw on the battery and it prevents unnecessary wear on the clock while the car just sits in the garage for weeks or months at a time.

I would definitely want the proper fuse on a clock circuit. These clocks can be a minor, but real fire hazard. Use the appropriate fuse, and disconnect the clock when the car is not in use. That will eliminate any remote hazard and prolong the clock's service life.

A master disconnect switch is a good idea on any older car. With a master disconnect, one simple step eliminates any concerns with parasitic current draw and possible shorts or malfunctions with items like the clock, glove box or trunk lights, etc, and it is one more safeguard against theft or tampering. Use a high quality switch and terminals, and locate the switch where it can be reached from the driver's seat.

If you need someone to fix the clock, I highly recommend Jerry at ClockWorks in Eagle River, WI.
He fixed it in Feb. 2018 and it has been running every day ever since, so 5+ years. My only problem was the hour hand slipping an hour every 2-3 months. It was loose, also running a minute per day fast. When I re-worked the dash this year, I took it to a local clock and watch shop locally and they fixed it on the spot.

I love telling the story of how it works. That it has a clock movement and that the electrical part is just to wind it. It ticks! It's my personal hearing test. And almost everyone remarks that Wow, it still works.

Red.

Tried capacitors . across points not sure where cause they move.

Going to give 6 volts a try. See how long it goes.

With buck converter . going to put switch in.

I drive the car regulatorly.

I haven't seen those borg quarts conversions for awhile.

Hemmings had them listed in the 80s.

5here was one on ebay . but couldn't tell if it was for Packard.
It also looked like a job to do.

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I said capacitor and diode.

You solder the diode across the winding coil so that the high voltage generated in the winding coil as the contacts open and the magnetic field collapses is shorted out through the diode rather than causing an arc at the contacts.

You solder the condenser across the contacts. This is easy. The contacts ground the coil, so all you have to do is solder one condenser lead to the contact side of the coil, and solder the other condenser lead to ground. It should be at least 50 mfd.

The two of them together all but eliminate point arcing and erosion.

Friction wear of the geartrain pivots and of the contacts are still your enemy. They are cheap brass dollar store alarm clock movements. They last a few years at best before they are just plain worn out, or the lubricating oil gums up. Even the best quality clock oil has to be replaced every few years. Are you going to pry apart you clock case every few years? Two or three times is all you get before the tabs break off. It is a never-ending uphill battle.

What unspeakable horror happened to your fresh air ventilator?

I will look at it again.

I know they put diodes across relays.

And i believe I tried it. There us not much room.

I'm holding on to my guns on points.

No way.. They both move.

The only way is the spring point. Its ground. Ground the ground.

Capacitor. Positive then negative to ground. Don't see where that would do anything.

The other point is on solenoid. And that arm moves. Hot..