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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#11
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humanpotatohybrid
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Quote:

BDeB wrote:
Quote:

TxGoat wrote:
I removed the door handle and it does have a pinhole, but I cannot insert a paper clip more than a fraction of an inch into it. Pressing on the paper clip feels like it is depressing a spring loaded device.


You need to be able to turn the cylinder in order to get it to the spot where it can be removed, so either a key that fits or trip to a locksmith.
Note that GM for many years used the same Briggs & Stratton key blanks as Packard so that may be another possible source for keys to try.


Yes, it's counterintuitive, but you must pick and rotate the cylinder to a position where the key couldn't be removed if the lock were operating normally, to be able to remove it by depressing that retaining wafer.

Posted on: 6/13 7:40
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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#12
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TxGoat
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No locksmiths in this area. Several phone numbers... all non-functioning. One fellow answered his phone, shop burned about 1 year ago.

Posted on: 6/13 12:20
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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#13
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TxGoat
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I was able to remove the cover plate on the base of the coil to access the terminal. The plate has been off before, and it appears that a gasket is missing, which allowed moisture to get into the area around the terminal and cause corrosion. The wire itself is in poor condition, and has been taped. It needs replaced. I can now connect a temporary aftermarket switch and mount it under the dash to run the car. It looks like the toe-board will have to come out to remove the switch and cable assembly, assuming I can get the switch itself free of the dashboard. I have found 3 old keys that will fit the door and ignition locks, but they won't unlock them. One key is marked Briggs & Stratton, and another is marked Curtis. The Curtis appears to be a duplicate of the B&S. A third key, marked "GAS" also fits the door and ignition lock, but does not appear to fit the trunk or rumble lid. All three of the keys that fit the door and ignition are round head keys. I don't know if the keys would be of any use to a locksmith. I'd much rather not remove the ignition lock if I can avoid it.

Posted on: 6/13 14:38
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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#14
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TxGoat
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It looks like I'm out of luck on locksmiths. The guy whose shop burned recommended a locksmith in Abilene. I just called that number and got a recording to the effect that the business will be closed for the next several months. I drove to a couple of addresses in this area where Yelp and Manta showed there to be a locksmith shop, but there weren't any, or anything close to one, or any evidence that there ever was one.

!!***!! I think I got a live one.... I was able to contact a gentleman in Decatur, Tx and discuss my problem. He is going to look up some information and call back. I mentioned this forum as a likely resource. I'm hopeful he can be of help. He has a mobile locksmith service and an office, and is often in the Graham area, which is only about 20 miles away. He didn't seem to be put-off by the car's age.

Posted on: 6/13 14:45
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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#15
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flackmaster
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I have a set of keys I've been collecting for the last 40 years. Not complete, but running about 75% success rate. Lemme know if I need to loan them. If none work, have locksmith cut an extra key to add to my set. and as for the ignition switch, STRONGLY encourage you to put this high on the to-do list, to replace the wire you will need to remove from the car, I think the re-wire process has been posted several times.

DAF

Posted on: 6/13 17:31
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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#16
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Owen_Dyneto
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DAF, if you can let me know what key numbers you're missing, I'll check my collection and if I have any of them, I'd be glad to give them to you to help complete yours.

Posted on: 6/13 17:39
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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#17
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humanpotatohybrid
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I have but a couple. But same.

Posted on: 6/13 18:08
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Re: Keys for 1937 120
#18
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TxGoat
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I'd appreciate the loan of the key collection. I'm thinking that I may be able to cut the terminal off the coil wire and insert an insulating sleeve a few inches into the armor cable. The wire looks OK where it hasn't been exposed. It looks like an 8 amp fuse would be a good to add to the switch feed.

Posted on: 6/13 20:41
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