Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi Guys,
Radiator came out fine on saturday, brought it to the radiator shop to get cleaned, pressure tested and painted...but my luck with the water pump wasn't so good. As you can see in the picture, I broke one of the bolts going into the block.
I forgot to give all the bolts a good strike with a hammer before trying to back them out. (I'm getting rusty like my car)
Over the next week I'll do some wire brushing, penetrating oil, and hope I can get this out with a vice grip. If not then it's on to stronger measures. (Good reason to get some ez-outs or tap set)

Question 1: Should I use gasket sealer on the new gasket between block and water pump, or is that not needed?

Question 2: 1 bolt attaching the pump to block was 2 inches long, 2 were 1 and 5/8" long, and the third I broke. Anybody know if they should all be the same 1 and 5/8ths?

Now, to find somebody that supplies SAE bolts here in Munich.


PS, I took out the water distribution tube w/o removing my grill! The back of it was full of gunk, as expected.

Tobs

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Per the manual on bolts. I happen to use sealer and manual recommends it but know of others who do not so guess it is a matter of preference and what you are comfortable with.

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A little advice - dry-fit all the water pump bolts first to insure adequate clearance, if too long you run the risk of having one or more hit the cylinder wall or other internals and potentially crack the block.

As the bolts go into the water jacket, use shellac or your favorite gasket goop on the threads.

One or more of the water pump bolts may have a flat copper washer under the head for a water seal - just look at the housing where the bolt head will make contact - it will be obvious as those needing a copper washer will have a machined recess for same. Not sure this applies to your particular model, but check it out.

I have always used gasket shellac on both sides of the pump gasket and think it's a good idea though probably not imperative.

By all means, avoid using an Eze-out if you possibly can. They are VERY brittle steel and if it breaks off inside the bolt, you've got a very difficult job on your hands. There are many, many techniques to try before that - be PATIENT. There may be enough protruding to use a stud remover.

Cleaned radiator and distribution tube and new waterpump, a great job to do and should go a long way to a happy driving season.

If you have an arc welder at your disposal, you can hook the ground to the block and connect the stinger clamp to the broken stud. Set the heat to about 100 - 125 amps. Turn the machine on for a few seconds. This accomplishes two things. One is burning up the rust between the bolt and block. The other is generating a great deal of heat without using a a torch and adversely effecting the area around the bolt. At this point, because you have a fair amount of bolt protruding, I would get a nut that slides over the protruding bolt shank and weld it on the end. When the weld cools, but the bolt is still quite hot put a wrench on it and begin to work it out. If you don't have access to an arc welder, you could at least do the weld the nut on trick with a 110v. MIG welder. I am sure someone would probably have one you could use if you don't have either an arc or MIG welder.

I would be very careful to not destroy the protruding end of the bolt because you are then just about stuck with trying an easy out. I agree 200% with Dave on the drawbacks.

I think you will get it out.

Tobs,

I hear good advise here from all posters.
39Super8's idea of putting a 'nut' on sounds useful and welding it even better if you have equipment or friends that do.

Be careful where you store the distribution tube. They are more fragile than they look. They can bend or mash easily, especially the copper variety which is in most Packards I've seen.

If you really want to flush the whole water jacket, consider buying new freeze plugs and removing the old ones. Then run a water hose and compressed air (with a long thin tube nozzle) into the block till you flush out the rust, gunk, goo and anything else that comes out.

DanL

Tobs,

I was not so lucky as to have a long stud to work with. I broke the EXACT same bolt on my 327. I ended up having to drill it out with a titanium bit (7/16 I believe) and placing a Heli-coil in there. The replacement should be a 1 1/2" 3/8"-16 bolt.

Tobbs, PM your mailing address and I will be more then happy to ship any SAE bolts you may need. Trade you for 1 liter of a good Weizenbier, but not any of that export garbage that's not fit for consumption.

Are we a banana republic?


Gerd, Where do you find this stuff?

Spreche ze duetch? Fantastic work Gerd. Always the man with a plan.

I lived on Mozart straza when I was little. My dad was in the usaf and we were stationed in Berlin for a time. Funny, we had a Chevy Vega at the time.

Thanks for all the tips and advice everybody. To be patient is an important one.
Ich habe auch schrauben-preisinger im internet gesehen! Danke Gerd. The nut and bolt shop is about 5 blocks from the Hofbrauhaus and a few other good breweries...will be hard to stay on course to get the bolts!!!

Got some good penetrating oil, a new wire brush, and a 1 Kilo hammer. cleaned the rust away, gave the bolt a few hits and soaked it in oil. Will repeat for a few days before trying to turn it out.
Cross your fingers, Or 'press your thumbs' if your german!
Tobs