Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi All! Just a general question here. When it is cold out my '53 Cavalier (327 Thunderbolt) REALLY doesn't want to start. I have to use starting fluid, and even then it sometimes takes me a battery charger and a half hour to an hour to get her to start up. Does anyone else have the same problem? I've replaced the coil, points, adjusted the point gap, cleaned the spark plugs and rebuilt the carb. When its above freezing she starts right up no problem.

I'd ask, how cold is "cold", what weight oil is in the crankcase, and what size (gauge) are the battery cables? You often see 12-volt battery cables on 6-volt cars and they just aren't enough - should be "0" gauge at a minimum.

The usual cause is batteries are very inefficient when cold so increased or heavier load on starter due to cold stiff engine and lubricant causes starter to pull more current and more voltage drop so just not enough is left on a 6v system to fire the coil reliably or adequately to overcome anything else not to spec. Other than checking the connections and grounds and making sure all are in excellent shape and size including the battery, must say I can sympathize.

The 51 I drove thru high school had exactly the same problem. Did everything you have done except carburetor even to the point of leaving the charger on overnight. The problem was finally overcome by using an external crankcase oil heater that was readily available at the time. This one stuck down the dipstick hole but other types were also available. Plug it in to an extension cord so kept oil warm and it fired like a charm. This was a 10 year old car at the time but I can only surmise that this must have been a common problem because heaters were available at just about every gas station and parts store.

Pprobably low compression. Run a compression check. Just a good static compression check will work.

could also be a major vacuum leak.

REMOVE 2 OR 3 PLUGS AND SQUIRT OIL into cylinders and then if it starts up fast most likely it's low compression.

Also worn distributor bushings can cause the symptom u describe. Remove rotor and grasp the shaft to see if it has much sideways slop in it.

Usualy starting fluid will make a low compression engine kick off pretty fast. But check compression anyway and the distributor shaft bushing is easiest tot cheque first..

Referring to my post above about years ago having to keep oil warm to solve the problem, out of curiosity I looked and am amazed to find this must still be an issue--even with 12v. Dipstick heaters are still available as are block heaters, radiator hose heaters and even heating pads that cement to the crankcase.

HH56, last time I bought a new car (about 2 years ago) I noted that engine block heaters are still a factory option, presumeably popular in places colder than I want to live.

My 34 (6-volt) will start quite readily in temperatures down to about 10 degrees F, below that it cranks quite slowly but still starts within a turn or two. Years back when I used straight SAE50W motor oil, I used a dipstick heater on those few occasions where it was that cold or colder and I wanted to take the car out, something I don't do any more. The points on low compression are very well taken. A point not mentioned but deserving of a look-see if the condition of the starter bushings/bearings, brushes and commutator.

Maybe I will invest in a heater of some sort. I haven't seen very many good opinions on the dipstick type, according to responses they seem to fail quickly. Just as an added note, I've also recently purchased a new battery and cables and had the starter rebuilt. I run 30 weight Rotella as my engine oil. The distributor shaft doesn't seem to have too much play in it, at least no more than any other vehicle I have worked on. Thanks for the responses, guys! This forum is great!

Scott