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Hello PackardInfo Crew,

Been going over my 2272; pulling off cobwebs and trying to set things right that have been "adjusted" by who knows how many mechanics prior to me. I'm gonna take my R9 relay unit down to my auto-electric repair shop and see what they say. I'll report back but they just might be able to rebuild it. A vintage tag of theirs is on the generator so they've worked on this car at some point in the past.

(An older gentleman has been there since the '50s; those guys are jewels, eh?)

Now, as I'm chasing down electrical circuits, I've noticed that the motor fires well when cold but almost seems to flood when hot. What actually does keep it from flooding as you hold the gas pedal to the floor to start? Could be my battery's not charged up quite enough and there are plenty of junctions I need to go over and make "bright and tight"... just curious about the best technique for restarting within 5 or 10 mins when she's fully warmed up.

And am I right: no headlight relay? Full current going through the switch on the dash? Guess it worked fine but ouch...

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You're correct in there is no light relay and all goes thru the switch. Several have added a relay using the Bosch 6v or similar type used on VWshttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=2739&forum=14 and it's not a bad idea.

If your electrical shop can't repair your OD relay, they are available but fairly expensive so we'll keep good thoughts. Too bad it's not an R11 as one poster repaired his by using the Bosch relay inside that original can. Since one coil is wound with heavy wire to carry solenoid hold current on the R-9, don't believe that's an option on yours.

As you're finding, 6v systems are not too forgiving of any poor connections or weak batteries so cleaning, shining and charging would be a good first step.

Thanks HH56,

This one had me laughing: no headlights, high or low. Grabbed a meter and starting checking under the dash at the switch, under the car at the rear of the dimmer, along harnesses... saved the easiest check for last: both bulbs were burnt out - duh. I've never seen a vehicle with all four filaments shot but guess there's a first time for everything...

In a moment of stupidity I once burned out every filament of every bulb that happened to be on a the time by throwing the battery cut-off switch while the car was running and then giving it a bit of gas. Without the resistance of the battery in the circuit, the generator voltage output will rise to a high-enough voltage to blow every bulb that was activated. Perhaps this is what happened?

Guess that's possible if the field winding was shorted to ground but would have to be that way for a while. Believe only one pair of filaments is active at a time so to blow both high and low beam, the dimmer switch would have to have been switched.

HH, you don't need a grounded field winding for that to happen, give it a try if you wish but have a bulb on that you don't care about - watch it get brighter and brighter and brighter and then - poof!

When I did it I had both of my 3003 triple filament headlight bulbs on, and at the time they were about $300 each for used bulbs. Your could have heard me scream in Sheboygan!

You're right. Without seeing a voltage the regulator will keep trying to get one so those contacts will be closed tight so almost a short. Still don't see a path on the 48 for all the filaments to blow without being selected though.

I know the previous owner worked on getting it started after sitting a while and he did replace the battery. Could be he jumped it while the battery was out. If it started, someone may have started pushing buttons and stomping on switches to see what worked, ironically breaking what did.

All seems well now aside from OD circuit, radio, and clock. I'm thinking my hard hot start was the battery not quite up.

Speaking of: can someone clarify the rear light positions? We have 3 circuits, correct? Tail, Stop, Turn... 2 holes for sockets per side. What goes where? Someone put double contact sockets in all 4 holes but I'm doubtful of the splicing so I'll try to return to stock; maybe install some LEDs. So, Stop up top, Tail & Turn below? No wait, Stop & Tail are combined, Turn above. Or is it... ?

Am sure someone will come along with a definitive answer but if wiring diagram is any indication, turn is above and stop & tail below. Not sure it matters if holes and reflectors are same size. Fact book says lenses are prismatic and direct the beams straight back. If that's not the case, then personally I would put the stop lamp where it's the most visible. It's not like they are going to blind anyone following.

All four headlamp filaments out...could someone not realizing it was a 6 volt system have tried operate the car to a 12 volt battery? If so there will be more surprises.