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I'm really appreciating this site & forum and want to toss my coins at a vendor that is recommended here. I've finally gotten around to removing my drums and having a look. I'll be needing the usual wheel cylinders & master; looks like the springs and shoes are serviceable.

Let me know if anyone has an opinion on a particular shop I should get my parts from.

On a side note, I'm sending my R9 OD Unit to Atwater Kent for a look-see. Will report back when they've had a chance to drum up a quote...

Cheers,

Michal, I too am going through the brake system on my '47 Custom. My front wheel cylinders were frozen and not honeable. I ordered new front wheel cylinders from NAPA (9340 and 9341 - $75 each). However the called for hose (NAPA 4497) does not fit the cylinders. The hose brake line end (female) is ok, but the male end into the cylinder and the cylinder have different threads. The cylinder has 7/16" - 24 and the hose has 7/16" - 20. New hose (NAPA 36722) has been ordered with 7/16" - 24 thread on both ends. This should fix the cylinder end conflict. I also ordered new front oil seals (NAPA 17599) and they look to be correct.

In the back I ordered new wheel cylinders from Kanter. One cylinder was ok, but the RH one was pitted too deep to hone. These are new, not rebuilt, and are priced at $39 each. I ordered new inner and outer oil seals from NAPA. I don't have the numbers handy right now, but I took the National numbers off of the seals and NAPA could match them. Getting the inner seals out was difficult, but I got them out (in pieces).

I also ordered a new, not rebuilt, master cylinder from Kanter. Mine was too pitted to hone.

I had a local brake and clutch shop reline my shoes and turn the drums.

If I had to do it again, I would probably have ordered all new cylinders (wheel and master) and hoses from Kanter, and seals from NAPA. I'll use silicone brake fluid because that is what was in the system. I flushed and blew-out the lines, but don't think I got all the silicone residue out. Would need new steel brake lines to change type of fluid. The wheel bearings (front and rear) look good and I'll probably re-use them.

Never got a reply from you on my PM question about your master cylinder.

Good luck.

(o{I}o)

Edit: Found the National numbers for the rear seals: Inner - 410190, and outer - 473473 (not a typo). Incidentally, the person at NAPA who is so helpful in a woman and knows how to use catalogs! Perfect date???

Ha! That's great! I run a small dairy delivery business and had a young lady approach me about a job because she thought our old milk trucks were so cute. She worked for me for a good 3 years and wasn't afraid to get her hands dirty under the hood when the opportunity arose. Always thought if I had a daughter, I'd raise her with a good dose of tomboy qualities.

Thanks for all the great part numbers John.

Quote:

I too want to say this is the best Packard site out there. My brake switch went out last weekend and I went to Autozone and Advanced last night trying to find it. No luck. It is a very common switch and I knew they had to have it, they just couldn't find it. If it doesn't just pop up on the computer they can't help you. Came home pissed off, jumped on this site, went to the parts ref page, F4805, took that number back and they pulled it of the shelf. This site is a phenomenal reference.

Glad to hear the Parts X-Ref saved the day again!

Folks if you find parts that fit, please remember to add them to the Parts X-Ref to help the next guy out! As you can see...it works!

Just a little update here: After digging around when I found a free minute or two, I ended up getting rear cylinders from Napa for $9 each and adapters for another $2.50 each. I'm moving the bore from 15/16" to a full 1" but don't expect that to be very noticeable. This weekend I should have the time to mount everything and see how well it all goes together. If it's as smooth as I expect, I'll be moving up to the fronts... right now those babies would run me over $150 a pair but I just might have the same kind of luck at the front as I seem to be having at the back. Either way, the Parts X-Ref will have all the details posted when I'm done.

Have a great weekend everybody,

Quote:
Packard 316756 crosses over to C/R 17599
Victor 49215 crosses over to C/R 17599
National 5827 crosses over to C/R 17599
NAPA currently sources 17599 from SKF

I got 17599 oil seals from NAPA today for my 1947 Custom 2106 but the oil seal lip type is HM21 (cross section) whereas according to my 1970 Chicago Rawhide (C/R) catalog the 17599 oil seal lip type (at that time) was G10 (cross section).

The sealing lip of the original seal was nearly flush (.020" deep) with the face of the seal body. The seal lip of the modern 17599 is .224" deep from the face of the seal body.

The 1.75" dia spindle boss is only .398" tall. If you allow .100 clearance, there is only approx .070" of spindle boss available for the modern 17599 seal to engage.

I placed the seal directly on the spindle boss in its working position, flat side against the spindle. The seal barely engaged the hub.

Then I turned the seal around to find a much better fit but in this position the seal body interferes with the bearing and will not press flush with the hub. Anyone else have any thoughts on this situation?

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For my 47 Clipper I went withhttp://www.whitepost.com/ , it was a little pricey but I still have the original brake and master cylinders. They seleeved and quarantee it for lifetime. Hoses where from NAPA and hooked up with no problems.

There is an outfit in Quincy, Ca that dies a great job with brass sleeves, once do it is for ever, a little silicone fluid and thats it. i can post address if some one would like it.