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And then the cooling system starts to rear its ugly head. The first photo says it all.

I didn't take a lot of in between photos on the radiator, It was too involved to do that.

The final summation is a new core was fabricated, and is not the original way that the cores were constructed in 1933. At some point, the radiator industry changed tooling. Regardless, no-one has this old tooling, so the cores are all hand fabricated. The shop I worked with managed to find a core that looks original and is supposed to be equal to or better than original for performance. We shall see.

As far as a finish on the radiator, I have heard several different things.

One being that the radiators were not painted, as there are some original cars out there that do not have a bit of paint on them. Another being that if they were painted, it was a flat black paint.

Well, by the time I got this information, the shop had already primed the radiator, so painting was the only option.

Here is another point of discussion. I ended up using the satin black radiator paint by Eastwood. I chose this product because it is thinner than regular rattle can and can withstand high temps. And boy, it is definitely thin!!! I have never had so many drips in my life!

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Quote:Great sequence of pic's of before, during and after. A whole lot of work goes into getting from the before to the after.

Regarding the top insert. Depends on how much you want to return the '33 to original. If you're a real stickler for correctness then it's not really a question. But to undo what has been done is a fairly large task. A question which could influence your decision is whether the roof leaks as it is now? Could be the reason why what was done, was done in the first place. Another factor is cost, besides having to do a whole new insert there's also the cost of undoing what's been done.

Mal, I would have to agree. Unfortunately, I spend way too much time trying to track down missing parts. I cannot thank you enough for your and Wade's support in this effort.

I have come to the conclusion that my car was used as a parts car in putting together another restoration. This is information that I have obtained from my father and some other people that are familiar with the history of the car. It is evident in the very first photo of the blog, ironically, the front bumper!! My father spent years tracking down many of the hard to find parts, luggage rack, frame covers, gauges, etc.

And here is how the car sits presently.

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Currently, I have a list of several problems.

One is my carburetor, which is original, but is in bad shape. The nipple and part of the bowl are currently jb welded together, as the original pot metal decayed a long time ago. As the story goes, the bowl was broken when the fuel line was being checked for tightness. One unfortunate side effect is that once the car is shut off, a large amount of fuel comes down the overflow tube.

Also on the carburetor, the bottom shaft is leaking a small amount of gas onto the exhaust. Not good.

Regardless, the carburetor needs to be completely gone through by a professional. It has new gaskets, but the bottom shaft needs to be looked at.

I was fortunate to find another bowl, that was an adventure of its own. I called the shop in Eldon, MO. He said if he had one, it would be $3500, but he would have to check. I promptly told him what I thought of that. Thankfully, someone else had one.

Another problem is the hand throttle assembly. At one point the linkage broke at the firewall, and it was welded back together, incorrectly. Thankfully I have located another one, But am unsure how to install it.

Simply put, I do not know where the lever on the steering wheel should be, say a zero point, when I connect the linkage to the assembly at the base of the steering column.

The coil base is cracked, as we forgot to put a washer spacer underneath it, and when the head bolt that goes through it was torqued, the weak link prevailed. So a new base is in order.

The fuel line needs to be replaced and covered with the correct cotton insulation.

I found the correct starter selenoid, but need to mount it. But at that same time, I am wanting to put the correct wrinkle finish on the starter. Putting the correct wrinkle finish on the generator would be a great idea. New tags would be nice too.

Speaking of the starter, the starter actually goes to a 1935 standard 8, who knew? Not sure If I will spend the money to get the correct one. This one works great!

The generator is correct, however the regulator cut-out goes to a 1932 twin six, once again, who knew?

Somewhere between the generator, the regulator, the ammeter, and the fuse block with a current check in it, my voltage is not getting through the system.

The core electrics work, but anything other than the distributor, coil, and starter is low on voltage. My optima gel reads 8 volts, but i only read 4 at the brake switch. Wiring is all brand new from Potomac Packard.

Not sure if the automatic choke is working, as I purchased the linkage after the radiator was removed. Not sure how to troubleshoot if it doesn't work.

Whew, my fingers hurt.

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Quote:Hobbs,

Have you been following the this thread, very inconveniently located in the ZIS, ZIL and other Packard Cousins! Forum. Might provide some clues to help with yours. Plus Mat's '34 is now in the workshop and this MAY be looked it by Wade, because the linkage is not currently connected up. If it is, I'll take pic's and report back.

Mal,

Oh yes, I have indeed been following that thread.

I believe I have all the correct pieces, and that they all work. However, it is determining the zero point that will help. For example, at what clock position on the steering wheel should the hand throttle be located for zero throttle. This will ensure that I don't put the throttle in a bind. I do not want to find out the hard way as those pieces in the steering column and base are expensive and rare!

Any pics would be great. Oddly enough, there is a photo in the link above that shows exactly where my old one broke and was re-welded incorrectly. Owen D. circled that exact spot. I have shown that photo below.

I did obtain another one from a fellow 33 owner, but have yet to install it.

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Some years back CCCA published a very neat writeup on how to service and adjust the Stromberg Model C automatic choke. It's copywrited, but if you send me a PM with your email, I'll share a copy with you.

For adjustment purposes, the hand throttle lever on the steering column (under the horn bezel) should be at the closed position, about 7-o-clock.

For electrics, the large glass fuse is available from NAPA, #782-1017 for 20 amp, #782-1019 for 30 amp, they match the OEM fuses. Let me know what else I can help you with, I've driven and maintained as closely to stock as possible an 1100 for 45+ years and it shares many features with your 33 Eight.

Sorry to break in on your thread but you have me confused hear Dave. My hand throttle lever is on the righthand side under the horn button and therefore surely zero would be at 5 o/clock. Is mine wrongly connected or have you misprinted?
Terry

The popular phrase is "senior moment", but I much prefer "intellectual intermission", and I took one. Right side, 5-o-clock is correct.