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Not sure what's going with Brian's links. Try these if you want--although it sounds as if they are just more of the same references to what you have already. The jiggle pin removal is in the last one and sounds as if that was determined to be the cause all along. I think there might be one later one in reference to that pin change about parts interchangeability with the earlier engines because of the new gallery plug.

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL15NO12.pdf

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL15NO19.pdf

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL17NO16.pdf

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL20NO1.pdf

Joe -

My apologies for the dead links. The files ARE in an SC directory, but I called an "SC" file in the link when I should have specifed an "SL". The links in my previous post are now fixed.

In addition to the low oil pressure article in SC Vol. 20, No. 1, I found an article regarding a new pump design with higher volume/pressure that was introduced in production, but also provided for all 18th-21st Series Super 8s in SC Vol. 21, No. 2. The P/N for this new pump also appears in the 1948-54 parts book, but only for 22nd-23rd Series Custom 8s.

Not sure of which engine you are focusing on, I will let you decide for yourself what is appropriate.

I'll check the engine number when I get home to determine the year made. I'm guessing 1950, and yes, Custom 8. That was the last year for the 356 and whatever improvements, like replacement of the jiggle pin, would have been made...and practically rebuilding (for me) the engine won't be necessary. The rigmarole plumbing probably isn't necessary, but now I think I'll keep it as a conversation piece!

I was treated to a great birthday lunch complete with a fine pinot noir and a chocolate sundae. I feel like heading home now.

Thanks again, Brian, JW, and Howard.

Joe,

A couple of things to note:

The 1948-50 Custom 8's did away with the pressure regulating piston in the oil gallery and used a restriction in the tee that feeds the gallery to limit flow and prevent over oiling of the timing chain. A similar restriction was used for the feed to the oil filter. These restrictions were built into a single 4 way tee that was fed from the main oil gallery, so one restriction on each side of the tee with none on the feed and pressure sender connections.

The 1948-50 oil filter inlet is the upper one on the side of the cannister. The filter outlet on the bottom of the cannister drained into the crankcase. This is opposite from the 1940 filter, so you may want to re-check the flow arrangements to match the filter that you have used.

Thanks, BDeB. The plot and the oil, perhaps, thickens.
Block number is G6068180, which makes it a '48-49 356.

Joe, you can also check the casting date on the engine. It is low down and at the rear of the block in the cast recess. I forget which side, but I think it is the driver's side.

BdB explained the four-way fitting and its function much better than I did.

(o{I}o)

Yes, I will check the flow as soon as I get the engine running. I know this. The original 40 356 was replaced with a 120 engine from a sedan I was given. At the time, I didn't know there was a difference until the mechanics called and said a connection was too short. They compensated somehow and the car ran for 5 or 6 years before I got the 48 356. So many if not all the peripheral parts on the 120 engine, such as the oil filter, would have gone away with the 120 engine. I can check if the 120 oil filter is the same as the 160, but I don't think it is (because I'd probably have a spare oil filter).

So we have a 48-49 356 and a 48-49 356 oil filter. As you, BdeB, point out, the flow should be out the bottom of the canister and into the crankcase. I know how you would all love it if I got a Texas gusher in my face checking the flow direction by disconnecting at the bottom of the canister, starting the engine, and seeing if the oil comes out the bottom of the canister OR up the spout. My luck is oil will come out of both. If I think about it for 2-3 days I might come up with a better way, but I am sure, as sure as I know a good melon, that someone can suggest a better way.

JW I will check the casting date to confirm year.

Yikes, I just checked those pictures of my oil set up and that illustration on Page 3 of this thread. The top is set up as the outlet, unlike the pictures of cortcomp and JW setups shown on Page 4. So it looks like I DO have it backwards. Thanks for mentioning, BdeB. Of course, I'd still like to check it.

Some cans have an inlet and outlet stamped on. Your inlet as plumbed now is going in the bottom as I think would be proper for that year filter setup -- if the can's the right one. As near as I recall, the basic construction is the same internally. The later ones have a tiny hole or two in the internal center pipe for control. Don't know if the early ones did as well because they keep mentioning the restriction in the elbow at bottom inlet. IIRC, Big Kev's filter was of the center inlet type.

That center inlet is one thing I haven't really understood. Logically, it would seem to me the inlet would be on the side as there is so much more surface area of filter to work with before it would load up and need a change.

Yes indeedy. Using a mirror, OUTLET is stamped in a circle around the bottom opening of the canister. So re-plumbing now.

2011 is already a great year, kicking off, not with much football, but with a marathon weekend of Packarding.
OIL FILTER Re-plumbed. I may re-do it with a multi-port fitting and keep both tubes parallel.
SPLASHERS Painting completed with black urethane and skirt added. I used painters drop cloth, a rugged canvas-like material backed by clear plastic which I faced away from the engine compartment. I cut it 5 in wide and folded over the top edge, used a leather belt hole maker tool, the original washers, pop-rivets and tiny nuts on the underside. It looks nice and looks like it would keep water, dust, and dirt out of the engine compartment.
PEDALS/LINKAGE I re-installed the pedals and linkage, cleaning them up as I reassembled. Started rewiring the essentials for starting the car and thought I'd check the radio, too, when that's done.


Anyway, a lot of progress, so said goodnight to Duchess. Back to work tomorrow.

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