Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

The advice on using epoxy primer and taking an auto body course is right on. I did the latter 30 yrs ago, but it has been so long I need to do it again!

You wouldn't want to use lacquer anything these days, its an obsolete finish and doesn't hold up wll over time, typically it "alligators", those little surface cracks all over. There is some debate over modern base coat/clear coat systems vs. single stage urethane, the latter duplicating factory paint the best, the former giving a mile-deep shine, but too shiny for originality buffs. Most shops like base/clear because it is easier. All are expensive, no matter what. Expect to pay upwards of 4-5000 for a decent paint job these days, probably more. I spent 4.5 k on a little MG, with me doing the strip down and re-assembly!

This is the data sheet on the primer I use. It's not cheap, but in the long run it ends up being worth the cost since it is direct to metal (no 'pre-etch' required), and can be over reduced to create it's own sealer.

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/dl_attachment.php?attachid=1240511351&post_id=26940

Take a read back through my project thread, it may answer many of your questions as I cover a lot of things from beginning to end.

I would use a modern urethane paint. If you don't want the modern Clear/Base Coat gloss, then you just spray it single stage (no clear coat).

I never saw a factory finish fail because of incompatibility with new paint but if you are nervous every paint company makes a sealer you can spray on. I still say it is best not to remove the original paint job.

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I was just being sarcastic regarding the use of a rattle can. Those 'instructions' posted from ehow.com were so bad I was "surprised" they didn't include some reference to use of a rattle can.

An excellent reference book covering all phases of auto body repairing and painting.

In print and available from Amazon and most local book stores.

Title - Auto Body Refinishing

Author - William Toboldt

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I'm not a pro, but I don't think you can do this. When I painted my '68 Mustang in the late '90's with a DuPont base/clear system the base coat was rather dull and not at all suitable as a final finish. Also, I would think that the clear coat is what provides a lot of the paint system's durability as it is designed as the 'top' layer of the finish. That being said, maybe things have changed in the last ten years with base/clear technology. I'm sure one of our members with professional experience can chime in on the subject to correct me if I'm wrong.

One other thought...I was always under the impression that DIY use of urethane paints required some form of professional breathing equipment and a full body suit due to the harsh nature of the paint. One of the reasons I went base/clear was because I could get away using a simple quality respirator and didn't need any special protective gear. Of course, if you have a pro spray the car none of this matters.

I think you are confusing Single Stage urethanes with just the base coat of a Clear/Base system. They are not exactly the same.

I just reread your post and, you're right, I misunderstood what you were saying. I thought you were suggesting that the one could simply spray the base color of a base/clear system and be done which, of course, you cannot. You are, however, most certainly correct about the single stage urethane being a "one shot" application.

So just in simple steps

1) how many coats would be used on Epoxy primer

2) your chosen color, normally how many coats, and Is it still epoxy paint


3) does any final coat need to be applied for extra durability or shine?


4) does the color of your primer effect in any way the final shine?

1) how many coats would be used on Epoxy primer

As many as needed. Typically you apply two wet coats for general coverage. Then there is much sanding, blocking, guide coating and skim coating. As such more primer is applied as needed within all these steps. Usually once the all this done a final sealer coat is applied before the color coat (paint) goes on.

2) your chosen color, normally how many coats, and Is it still epoxy paint

Depends on the paint system system and color. It with typically be a single stage urethane, or a Water Bourne/Based color coat with a urethane clear coat. Or some places are still allowed to shoot traditional urethane base/clear.

3) does any final coat need to be applied for extra durability or shine?

wax

4) does the color of your primer effect in any way the final shine?

Yes it does make a difference. Light-Med gray is about the most neutral color, and why you typically see it as the most common primer color. White Primers can also be mixed with a complementary color tint.

It just like painting a house wall. Trying to paint a light cover over a dark color, or dark color over a light color. It may take more coats to prevent bled thru.