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Hopefully some of you may be able to shed some light on this subject. I am in the process replacing the sealed beam headlights on my '40. The replacement units that are available locally are halogens P/N: H6006. Has anyone had any experience with these? My car is running the stock generator and 6V Pos Ground system. I'm all for the upgrade in lighting but want to make sure that it does not cause any other issues. Thanks for the help!

Bulbs aren't at all interested in which pole is grounded. They draw a tad more current, but not enough more to be of concern.

I think I would also add a couple of relays to work the lights directly from a good voltage source rather than run them thru the headlight and dimmer switch. The extra current may not be excessive but the switches are still 70 years old so why push them. Halogens as well as the old style bulbs could also take advantage of the extra voltage with brightness output as well. Maybe take a line protected by a circuit breaker from the bat solenoid terminal or other good source to hidden relays near the lights and have the switches operate the relays via the old wires. Believe there is a schematic on site for doing that. A good relay to use is the 6v headlight relay for VW's or the one from Newark listed in the FAQ and other posts.

What BRAND are the SIX volt SEALED beam halogens ???? What store carrys them????

The important issue is to make sure all electrical connexions are GOOD. The terminals thru out the entire headlite circut must be brite shiny and clean. Best to scrape them to virgin metal using a knife or small file.

Most 6 volt "dim lite" issues are due to not necessarily corrode terminals but rather heavily tarnished terminals.

I'll join the chorus too. Where do you find 6v halogen sealed beams? I'd like several pair.

PackardV8 is one hundred percent right on the connections issue, and don't forget the ground wire.

Yes. Don't forget the ground wire AND the ground wire that runs from body to engine (probably on firewall).

The headlite switch can most likely be disassembled for cleaning too but i wouldn't do it unless it proves to be necessary.

HEre's how it's done:

Connect the Halogens to a battery with jumper wires INDEPENDENT of the cars circuit AND AN AMMETER. Read the ammeter. That tell how much current draw there is. Connect a voltmeter next and read that.

NOW install the halogen beam and connect an ammeter in the CARS headlite circuit and read the ammeter. If the difference in the two ammeter readings is less than 2 amps then everything in the CARS headlite circuit should be ok. Test with volt meter too.

I doubt that u will need any relays. It depends on the meter readings. IF the switch is old and corroded then adding relays only side steps a problem that will eventually get worse and probably pretty fast. Most of the older headlite switches can be disassembled.

I purchased these lights from our local CarQuest. They are Wagner H6006. I'd have to find the receipt but I believe they were around $15 a piece. So far I don't seam to have a heat issue in the wires or switch but I may go ahead and install a relay since I do a fair amount of night driving. Thanks all for the help!

Many thanks for the Info on the part number and source for the Halogens. Great contribution!!!!

As for the relays, remeber that the relay draws current to stay activated. Just one more draw on the electrical system that is not necessary.

Relays are usualy used when substandard wire gauges are used or when the power source and/or switch(s) are long distances from each other such as trunk mounted batteries.

Relays typically only draw 100-500ma when engaged. So not basically nothing when compared to the actual draw of the headlamps themselves. They draw nothing when not engaged.