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Occasionally, the starter motor (Auto-Lite) continues to spin after the engine ('49 356) has started. At first I thought that this was probably a problem with the Carter carburetor starter switch but the starter continues to spin even when the ignition is turned off. The only way to stop it is to break the battery connection. So, I'm thinking it's the starter solenoid assembly that's sticking. Does this sound correct?

In another thread on a "not cranking" issue, I cited an article titled, "Car Starter Switch", in SL Vol. 17, No. 1.

However, a follow-up article titled, "The Starting Circuit", in
SL Vol. 17, No. 17 may shed some light - namely the final paragraph.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Brian. I read the item and next time the problem occurs I'll pull one of the wires from the carburetor switch and see if that stops the starter. I thought that turning off the ignition would have the same effect since the carburetor switch is only 'hot' when the ignition is on. I'll report back next time it happens.

Edit: Brian, do you have a different Service Letter reference for 'The Starting Circuit'? The article doesn't appear in Vol. 17 No. 1.

JD -

My apologies regarding the source for "The Starting Circuit" article - a cut-n-paste error on my part. I've since gone back and fixed that post to correctly cite and point to SL Vol. 17, No. 17.

However, I see now that this follow-up article merely reiterates the point about continued spinning of the starter motor from the broader "Car Starter Switch" article.

So, please do let us know how it all works out.

I'm thinking about adding a reference to that "Car Starter Switch" article, from SL Vol. 17, No. 1, to both the 48-50 and 51-54 installments of our online Service Index.

The problem re-occurred this morning. What fun... the starter is cranking madly away with the left side hood open.

Step 01. Turn off the ignition (starter continues to spin).
Step 02. Close the left side of the hood.
Step 03. Secure the left side of the hood.
Step 04. Run around to the right side of the car and release the hood.
Step 05. Open the right side of the hood.
Step 06. Run to the toolbox and grab a screwdriver.
Step 07. Disconnect the outside wire on the carburetor starting switch (starter continues to spin).
Step 08. Close the right side of the hood.
Step 09. Secure the right side.
Step 10. Run around the car and release the left side of the hood.
Step 11. Open the left side of the hood, hold open with right hand.
Step 12. Disconnect the battery with left hand (starter stops).

It's a good thing that this car has a new battery! Anyway, I've determined (by the book) it's not the carburetor starter switch. Next step is to pull the starter motor and get it on the bench for some investigation. Will advise.

Too much excitement and exercise for a Saturday!!

Unless you have an auxiliary pushbutton switch installed in parallel with the carb switch, sure sounds like the solenoid. Pitted and welded contacts, or overheated at some time causing the insulation in plunger core to expand & make plunger stick are two likely causes. Guess it's possible the starter bendix actuating assy or return spring could be at fault but not too common that I've heard. Be interesting to hear what you find.

basic electric, the starter relay is stuck.

Dave, to literally avoid a circulatory collapse a well tempered hammer blow on the solenid should be a less-than-ideal but temporarily helpful solution.






[picture source:http://www.splung.com/content/sid/2/]

Gerd (Guscha): darn funny pic and not too far from the truth. Thanks!

Craig

I would tend to agree that your problem more than likely points to the solenoid, but have seen a few other things in years past. One is burrs on your starter drive or flywheel teeth. If they have ever ground in the past, they could have burrs that like to hang on to the starter/flywheel teeth. You mentioned "new battery", does that mean you have had low battery troubles recently? Solenoids don't normally fail unless they've been exposed to low voltage. So, if you have been trying to start it with low voltage that would explain the damage to the solenoid. Feel free to contact me with any questions.
Jason
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
www.aerrebuild.com