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Babbitt or shells?

Short sharp cryptic question! Originals are babbitt. I believe it's possible to convert to shell type slipper bearings. But it's probably better to re-babbitt if you're thinking of new bearings. There would probably be a lot of extra machining involved for one with shells, while the original oiling system is designed for babbitt and may not be suitable for the shells.

Have you had the sump(pan) off to check what type you have and what condition they are in?

Both were originally poured babbit. If I recall correctly the mains had the babbit poured on very thick bronze half-shells which are retained by pins. No reason to even think about changes to the mains, rebabbit and have them line-bored, they should be good for a very long time. I redid my poured mains at 90,000 miles and they weren't that needy.

There have been many schemes to convert the rods to various types of modern inserts - some have worked well and others have been a disaster. The rods do require modification and it's pretty much an irreversible operation. Personally I'd stick with poured bearings and drive the car within it's limitations, adding an OD or high speed rear gears if you really want to drive a sustained high speeds. If you consider changing the rods to inserts, research it VERY thoroughly. Driven reasonably, rebabbited rods done by one of the better shops should have a life of at least 50,000 miles, or more. I have some old articles that I've posted before on one or more of the schemes for rod conversions, PM me if you want more info but if it were my car, I'd steer clear of conversions. I'd rather rebabbit rods than end up having to go shopping for a crankshaft in the future; babbit is much kinder to shafts.

Cryptic? Maybe. I just thought it a yes or no answer. Why waste zeros and ones? I have a spare engine/transmission combo that has been sitting in a crate for many, many years. Having time on my hands (perhaps too much time?)and the ideas start winding around in the old noodle. Legend has it this was a "new in crate" engine from Packard but the looks of it tells me differently. There aren't any part number stampings on the motor mount ear, just an "X" cast into it. Every few months when I think about it I dump some oil into the cylinders. I am a medium speed diesel engine mechanic by trade (up to six thousand horsepower) and I have never even attempted to turn the engine over. I will need to prelube it first among other things. I would like to get the cylinder head off for further inspection. Without access to a bore scope I think it's the only way to safely prepare the engine for a start up. Any suggestions to the best way of getting the head loose (besides getting someone else to do it) and I think the combined weight of the engine and trans combination should be around fifteen hundred pound. Am I close? Even if it turns out to be a stuff and mount, it will still look great in fresh Bell green and Aluminum paint with nickel plated acorn nuts. Anyone have a 29 frame and cowl they would like to give away? =)

Engine numbers are stamped into the motor mount ear. No idea what an X cast in denotes. As an engine mechanic it shoild be a piece of cake to remove the head as a flathead engien is the sumplest engine there is, remove the nuts adn heave ho. Why would you get someone else to do it for you, you can literally could do it blindfolded.

Sorry for the long-winded response above, I read too much into your question.

No bother at all Owen. Engines are engines but, I know my way around a 4,000+ HP diesel a lot better then I do a Packard 8, and different engines respond to different techniques. I have no issue about asking when I haven't worked on a particular type of engine, and with three compressed disks in my lower back, I need to be real careful. I am also not into...

I wouldn't worry as much about pulling the head as for pulling the oil pan and inspecting the bearings (which are definitely babbitt) and oil distribution tube. You should be able to get a good look at the lower part of the cylinders as well.

You can also pull the valve cover to check for stuck valves. Much easier than pulling the head.