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Or... they go too far the other way and get a paint with a large modern metallic flake in it and end up with a car that looks equally wrong (Candy Apple). Chicory Green over Grove Green is on my short list for the '41.

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It is possible though damn expensive to have metallic paint flakes ball-milled or attrited to a finer particle size before incorporation into the paint, and thus get a much better approximation of the appearance of the metallic paints used during the Packard era.

you don't need to get custom milled flake , IMO, if you select the finer grades of flake currently available. I agree the coarse flakes look totally inappropriate

The Duchess is painted 1940 Blackhawk Gray Metallic (one of three metallics for 40) with a mixture of extra fine and medium metallic which highlights beautifully, but without direct light looks normal. This is the official PPG conversion done by their color center from the original Ditzler (then a PPG division) 1940 color code prepared by the PPG color library. I'll get more information from the paint shop on the code for Blackhawk Gray Metallic to add to the Packard Paint X-Ref Library here, but also the contact information for getting conversions to today's formulas.

Thanks for the links for specialists as well as the information on the floorpans from C2C. The thing that was throwing me off with the C2C pans is that they list them for a 122" wheelbase car, yet the One-Twenty is a 127" wheelbase car from what I can gather. Also, they didn't appear properly formed for the transmission tunnel.

In regards to the plans for the car, I appreciate you guys telling me to keep it as original/stock as possible, in particular for resale value. The car IS NOT leaving our family, therefore we have decided to built it to our preferences. Paint wise, we are definitely painting the Packard in a two-tone scheme. Right now, we are leaning with a dark blue and a silver, but paint is a long ways away. As an engineering student, the plan is to run stress/strain/fatigue tests on the wheels to determine if they can still be used, and if so, they will be painted to match the car and the original Packard hubcaps will be placed on them. Certain aspects of the car will be applied to my engineering courses, in particular the wheels, frame, and engine.

We plan on driving the car often (that's why we have it), including on the expressway, so we plan on putting radial tires on the car, and this is also the reasoning behind the 12-volt electrical system. We want to see and have the car be seen at night (headlight/taillight brightness), thus the 12-volt change. Also, since the car will be on the expressway and in modern traffic, we want to convert the car to disk brakes for better stopping power.

I really appreciate the input from each of you, and I cannot believe the amount of information provided by the members, as you guys helped me through the tear down of the car. The idea is to keep the car as stock appearing as possible, but we want it to fit our driving desires. We have two Chevy Impalas (1960 Convertible and a 1964 SS) that we take to shows--not to have judged or win trophies for, but to drive around and enjoy. The same is going for the One-Twenty. We aren't looking for a concourse-style restoration with every nut and bolt proper and in correct place, but a fun car to drive with some modern tweaks.

We want to see and have the car be seen at night (headlight/taillight brightness), thus the 12-volt change.

A conversion to 12-volt doesn't necessarily make for brighter lights. A 12-volt bulb rated for example at 32 candlepower is no brighter than a 6-volt bulb rated at 32 candlepower.

+1 on what Owen Dyneto said about 6V

You do know that they make 6V HALOGEN sealed beam headlights? Well they also make 6V LED bulbs on the 1156/1157 base too.

Earlier this year I purchased a 1941 120 business coupe that I plan to drive regularly, but not attend any judged shows. To power my GPS and recharge my iPhone I plan to add a USB charger as discussed here:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7868&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0
by 54Clipper.

The car did not come with a radio so over the winter I will adding a modern radio hidden inside the glove box and a stereo speaker in the original speaker area. With the modern radio I'll have Sirius and an outlet to play MP3.

Brakes on my heavier 160 convertible sedan work just fine for me, so I see no need to test any re-engineering and convert to disc brakes. The tires have already been changed out to Diamondback radials. They now make a radial tire for "Pre-1948 Luxury Cars" with the proper aspect ratio. As you are an engineering student, you may want to read their opinion of stress on rims:http://www.dbtires.com/rimstress.html

Best, --Roger--

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Roger, congratulations, that's a fine-looking coupe, a body style we don't see often enough. I'm curious if you've ever given positive thought to the running board delete option?

Hello Owen:

Yes, I've thought about it and they will be staying. First, and foremost I believe they are original to the car.

Next, having running boards says it is an "older" car - this at a time when car design was ready to make a big jump from "old" to "streamlined/modern."

Additionally, I am toying with the idea of adding some kind of rear passenger seating as would be found in a Club Coupe (body 1495) and running boards might make it easier for someone to climb in the back.

Thanks, --Roger--

As said, 12-volt DOES NOT give you brighter lights. As far as radials are concerned, there is very little handling improvement, if any, on a prewar car. However, I see that you're concerned about braking improvement, and radials will definitely give you better braking in emergency situations.