Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

As a few know, I've been playing and figuring out modern alternatives to various things on my car. Some a matter of convenience, others a locally available or less expensive item, others for a possible increase in reliability or less stress on an original component & the rest because I wanted a project or to see if I could do it. A quick update on a couple of them for the two or three interested parties.

NOTE: to those still shaking their heads, everything is bolt on and 99.9% installed using original holes. Nothing (yet) has resulted in any harm or permanent change to the Packard. If the car doesn't wind up at Pick-A-Part someday then the next owner can have the fun of removing them. I'll make Ross' transmission mods next week if the mood strikes and the weather co-operates and then see if the car still drives.

First three pictures are the battery master cut off switch installed so it could be operated from inside the car. Note the operating knob next to and behind the emergency brake.

Next three are my version of the modern brake setup to keep the pedal looking original. The booster fits in the original location. I haven't driven the car yet but it feels solid and good and stops wheels from moving--at least while car is on jackstands. I decided to add an air or dust seal around the shaft and a pedal return helper spring that were not part of or shown on my original plans. Also found it could assemble outside the car and insert as a complete package almost as easily as the original Treadlevac. No need to build in place as the plans show. If it drives as I think, am seriously considering another one with a few more changes.

Last items are a modern GM headlight switch and some relays for the lights. Relays I think are a good idea for old switches but the modern switch is because it cost $30 instead of $100-200 and I wanted to see if it could be made to work easily.

I have done other things which I may document if there is interest. The next thing after getting car off jackstands is finish the AC which is the project that started the whole thing.

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Nice neat work Howard. When the carpet is in place, no one will notice. Good pictures - self explanatory.

Wonderful projects in design and implementation. I know that the original Packard engineers would've been proud to greet you as an equal. It's amazing how these autos still inspire creation. Thank you Howard for your designs, we all owe you for your help.

Superb electrical work thru out. One exception: I am surprised that the Headlite switch is using the solderless terminals with teflon insulators still in place. I assume that was was just a pic during a Q&D mock-up???

Does the GM headlite switch fit the dash and Packard bezel with no modicications to the switch????

Maybe put a 1/2" to 1" radius on the toe plate corners to keep the the corners from wearing thru the carpet in short order.

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Keith and everyone who commented, thanks. Hard to see in that picture but no crimp marks on the terminals so they are soldered. Here is another picture showing how the insulators are removed and wires are soldered directly to terminals. If done carefully without runs of solder on the outside of terminals, the covers slide back on. Maybe overkill but more comfortable knowing they have a good solid connection and keeping the covers gives a bit of extra to hold during installation.

Other than bending a tab, the switch itself requires no changes but is not just drop in. Does require a slight bit of work to the mounting nut and shaft for the Packard bezel and knob-- but nothing outrageous needing more than a saw and file. I also went a slight bit extra in wiring because I wanted no changes to the stock Packard loom.

Instructions and parts are in the pdf file posted in the original thread.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=83907#forumpost83907 If you want them & can't download pdfs, I can convert to something else or email.

Thanks for the radius suggestion on the brake plate. Once it is proven satisfactory in function, was considering another try. Since it can mount as a unit after all & doesn't seem to need to be made in pieces for assembly in car, another version may be possible. Would still like to get the shaft nearer to original location and make sure it works with regular shift linkage cars.

Problem is unless something turns out to be a failure on this one, I probably won't be taking my car apart again to use as a test mule. Any little leverage changes needed I can make with provisions already there but doing complete assys with the seat and AC blower in place is another story. Was a project and contortion exercise just adding a torsion spring to the pedal as an afterthought. With no cars to play with closer than 50 miles, it may not happen.

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Nice work, Howard. We all benefit from seeing carefully thought-out and executed projects; especially those where changes can be removed with no evidence of their existence.

(o[]o)

I'll make Ross' transmission mods next week if the mood strikes and the weather co-operates...

And what are these modifications and where does the info lurk?

Three of them. A shortened spring, extra shim and a plate partially blocking a reverse piston port. Detailed in these threads.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=50850#forumpost50850

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=58127#forumpost58127

Quick point to mention, Howard, if you place your shim in the bottom of the shift piston as I do, it must have a good sized hole through it as there is fluid flow through the piston. You will notice the hole in the bottom of the piston.

To make my shim pack, I usually flatten a 1/4" lockwasher, and grind its OD a hair on the bench grinder so it fits inside the piston nicely. This will be sure to leave the hole in the poston uncovered. Then I add a 3/16 flatwasher on top of that to get the .120/.130 package I am looking for.

Look forward to hear your feedback.