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(1) 2 »

seat back
#1
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HH56
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Another question for the two or three 56 Caribbean guys.

Do any of you have this catch assy and if so, does it work well in keeping the seat back upright? I seem to recall reading in someones article that the spring catch side wore out or broke quickly. Just wondered if that was the case.

Mine never had them installed so am debating options. Ball studs are dime a dozen but the spring catch part is another story -- unless I want to order a multitude. Specs I find say the average pull required to release the ball is 8 lbs. If catches don't work all that great, maybe another option.

Rather than going the catch route, I'm also thinking of rare earth magnets -- one top & bottom in each hinge & pulling against each other. Specs on some of those magnets tend to make me think they will be just as strong -- with 4 magnets, maybe stronger. Ideas??

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Posted on: 2012/10/1 19:53
Howard
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Re: seat back
#2
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BH
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My H/T has the P/N 6484572 kit installed - at least on the passenger side seat back. Dunno why they'd ever be needed on the driver's side, but the factory left that option open (in SC Vol. 30, No. 5).

I suspect a lot of 56 Caribs will have had this kit installed. The modification was in already place when I acquired my H/T, but the (unoccupied) passenger side seat back of my car flopped forward with the first hard stop that I made.

While the kit isn't listed in the parts book, the details - like the P/N 6501321 ball stud (Gr. 30.8915) and the P/N 6501324 spring catch (Gr. 30.8916). So, I suspect they anticipated some need for service replacement in the future.

I suppose the ball of the stud could wear, in due time, but my recollection is that the ears of the spring catch (both) are broken off on my car. My question is just why this part breaks and what can be done to improve its durability. I've never had time to really look into it.

As someone who is looking to preserve the car as the manufacturer intended, I would just as soon replace the spring catches, but am not averse to a correction to the part that fails.

Posted on: 2012/10/2 8:42
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Re: seat back
#3
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HH56
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Brian, thanks.

As mentioned, ball studs of various types & sizes are available from many places. So far, have found the spring catch piece only from a couple and those are manufacturing sites where quantity is the key word -- as in how many hundred or thousand would you like to buy. I know there was an ordinary cabinet door catch in years past that was of similar construction. IIRC, the spring catch was mounted in a plastic piece for attaching to a shelf. So far I haven't found it.

Max doesn't list any of the Packard pieces but since they do break as you have confirmed, then not sure I want to waste the time - authentic or not. The tiny little catch arms are very flimsy and undoubted break even on cabinets. Maybe that's why they seem to have disappeared.

Am seriously leaning toward trying cylindrical rare earth magnets. One site has many in varying sizes and strengths. Thinking with a drill and a bit of hidden work, one size in particular could fit down inside the hole in that rubber bumper and pull against a corresponding one in the upper hinge half. Specs claim 9lb pull for the one I'm thinking of trying. If it doesn't work I'm no worse off and the attempt won't be noticeable.

Posted on: 2012/10/2 9:46
Howard
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Re: seat back
#4
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Randy Berger
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It does not work on my 56. I think it a poor design and was rushed into being.

Posted on: 2012/10/2 15:01
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Re: seat back
#5
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BH
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Howard -

Yes, the ball stud and spring catch design has been succesfully used in many applications involving access doors/panels, etc.

In addition to being suited for frequent disengagement, it's my understanding that the spring catch, is supposed be rather resilient, which would lend itself to some misalignment - a plus for field installation, in our case.

As such, it's odd that the legs/ears break, then. Makes me wonder if there was simply a Q.C. problem with the spring catch material (then) or the engineers should have selected a thicker stock, though the latter would increase pull tension.

Perhaps someday, I'll have time to look into that a little deeper, but I'm not about to purchase by the thousand (MM).

Good luck on your path.

Posted on: 2012/10/2 21:37
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Re: seat back
#6
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Charles
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Sometimes you can get a couple of "samples" from vendors that require purchasing 1000's of an item. Would not hurt to give them a call. Tell them you are working on a kit for a major automobile company and need the samples to see if they will work out before committing to a purchase.

Posted on: 2012/10/3 7:06
[url=h
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Re: seat back
#7
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BH
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Yes, I've done just that for a non-Packard car that I own, to get some specialty clamps, which proved to be one-time affair.

Problem is figuring out the proper material, finish, and thickness needed. I'm no engineer - merely going gut feeling WRT problem and educated guess WRT cure. Returning for additional samples for same project, without a purchase, kinda undermines one's credibility with the supplier.

Then, I wasn't looking at this solution for only myself, but thinking of other owners of same. Alas, I doubt if there are a sufficient number of Caribs, as the seat is a one year design, to merit a purchase. One site showed a minimum order quantity of 5,000 pieces.

Posted on: 2012/10/3 8:54
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Re: seat back
#8
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HH56
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I looked at the request a sample page and they do offer them basically for the price of postage. They also want a lot of information which in my case most would be pure fabrication. Be my luck they'd check me out so will pass.

What I find aggravating in the whole thing is multiple places sell ball studs in every size and configuration yet almost no one has anything for them to fit into.

Since remembering that article from years ago saying the catches didn't last long and Brian and Randy both confirming theirs not working, my feeling is why bother doing it again. The designs of the components surely haven't changed much although maybe the material has.

Have decided to try the magnet approach since it will only require two hidden holes. Won't even have to take the seat apart. The factory method requires 3 holes plus sawing off part of the hinges. Even if magnets are not strong enough & it doesn't work, nothing much except time will be lost.

Posted on: 2012/10/3 9:34
Howard
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Re: seat back
#9
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Owen_Dyneto
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HH, just to add to the data, my 5699 (#1254) has the retainers on both front seats, and they are no longer functional either.

Posted on: 2012/10/3 10:25
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Re: seat back
#10
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JWL
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Howard, what do you suppose would happen to the magnetic strips on my credit cards if I rode in your car with the rare earth magnets in the seats?

(o[]o)

Posted on: 2012/10/3 12:54
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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