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One of the guys in my neighborhood has a 1941 Cadillac-I think a series 62 sedan. It's in super nice condition and I must admit it runs really nice and drives nice. I told him I'd ask here because I don't know of any Caddy forums like this one.

Anyway, he's having trouble getting it in gear once it's started. He starts it in neutral and then when he engages the clutch it will not go into reverse or 1st gear. It will go into those gears when the engine isn't running but, sometimes it doesn't even want to go with engine not running. When the engine is running it makes the grinding sound when trying to put into reverse or 1st gear. I just don't have the knowledge you guys have so I told him I'd ask. He had this trouble once before and then it just started working fine with no warning. He drove the car less than a week ago, so it doesn't sit for long periods of time.

Oh yeah, if you try to start it with it in 1st or reverse with the clutch engaged it acts like it's just in gear and you're trying to start it without engaging the clutch. Does that mean the clutch has gone out?

Thanks

You've figured it out. Clutch is not disengaging. I have no idea what it takes to R&R a clutch in a 1941 Caddy. But, good luck to you and your buddy.

Craig

Does R&R stand for rebuild and repair? How much do you think a clutch job would cost on a car like that. I'm clueless on the price.

Back in the dark ages when I worked in a gas station


Back in the dark ages when I worked in a gas station R&R meant "remove and replace " Looked better than labor. That's somewhat similar to what new car dealers used to put on the invoice ADP - stood for Added Dealer Profit






















r7r

Any idea on the cost of a clutch for that 41 Caddy?

41 Cadillacs should be relatively easy to change the clutch. Parts should be reasonably priced too. Conventional design for the time. Easier than a Packard with Overdrive. I think they have a floor board that can be removed from the inside to get to bolts and stuff on top. Get a manual and go to the Cadillac LaSalle Club site for help and information. They are a great bunch and helpful too.

(o{}o)

Thanks JW

Quote:



Viewing to the detailed description of the fault it is as clear as daylight. Be so kind to inform us if the defect was suddenly coming or continually growing.

The cost of the clutch job depends on the kind of defect. An adjusting job (padel travel) or easy fix (defect Bowden cable or linkage) is made within 10 minutes. Even a jinxed foot mat, which slipped out of place to block the last but decive clearance of the pedal would be possible.
To change the clutch disk usually requires to unscrew cardan shaft and gear box to exchange the disk. If it is going nicely, the job is done after two hours. Be so kind to recommend him the exchange of the release bearing too and to shoot a glance at the shaft seal. If you do that in one go add another hour. I saved the best until last: no special tools nor rocket scientists necessary.
If no new coupling disc is available one would have to rivet new lining. This would double the work duration but again no sorcery (I must admit though that I never touched a '41 Cadillac). How about you, Ross?

For the sake of completeness two possible trouble makers should be mentioned. A broken clutch controller (fatigue) is possible but seldom. I make mention of it just to show you how clever I am. As opposed to this, a defect shaft seal that seals the rear crankcase is everything else but seldom. Escaping oil would pretend a coupling defect because of a sliding disk. But according to the given description we can rule out both cases.

Try this first:
NO OBSTRUCTIONS in front off nor at rear of car for at least 20 feet.
For additional safety probably need to remove ignition coil wire.
Place transmission in high gear.
Push clutch pedal to the floor.
Engage stater.
That should break loose the clutch disk from whatever it has siezed to from setting.
Note THAT CAR MAY LEARCH FORWARD FOR THREE TO TEN FEET DURING THIS PROCESS and that siezed clutch disk mite not release.

Yup, a stuck clutch disk was the reason to ask for the time factor. In a manual of the VW DKW Munga, made for the German armed forces I've read the guideline to use a short board or branch to hold down the clutch pedal after parking the car to avoid a stuck clutch disk.


VW DKW Munga - clutch a branch to branch the clutch


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