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I'M NOT ABLE TO ADJUST MY CLOCK FOR ACCURACY. EITHER TO FAST OR TO SLOW. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?

Most of those old clocks were not terribly great on pinpoint accuracy and may be worse as they age. The clocks are mechanical so in addition to dirty works and old lube also depend on other factors. Most notably if the battery strength or contact points are not in great shape or dirt and gum are hindering armature movement, the electrical winding kick may not be strong enough to move the mechanism full distance. If that happens and clock is constantly being only partially wound it may tend to run slower since less energy is going to the clock works.

The small adjust lever moves the end of a hairspring which connects and supplies energy to the balance wheel. Moving it towards fast tightens tension so balance wheel rotates a bit quicker and moving towards slow reduces tension and balance wheel takes longer as it moves the escapement mechanism. The adjustment is very minimal and may take several hours or even days before you can see a change.

Hi Chuck,

I only weigh in here behind Howard as I just recently 'fought' with this same issue. I ended up sending my clock to an 'online guy' who can remain nameless to protect the not-so-innocent, and after two mailings of my unit to his repair depot and a claim with the Better Business Bureau, I did get my money back and found 'The Clock Works' in Wisconsin. They fixed my clock first time, very reasonably and it now keeps perfect time. Would suggest you get a hold of them at:http://www.clockwks.com/The_Clock_Worx.html
Chris

You guys have it good! I've yet to get the clock working on my 41 120 Club Coupe, which was the object of a half baked 12V conversion. Now I'm wrestling with alternative power supplies, and no doubt will shortly discover it doesn't keep very good time anyway, for all the reasons Howard said.

If I really want to know the time, I look at my phone. But I'd like to hear the soothing tick of a mechanical clock even if the time it shows is only a rough approximation.

Cheers Brian

Yes, Brian, there's something about the sound of that spring, isn't there?!?! Mine started off with a broken glass and did not work at all. After procuring a donor duplicate online and much ado and back and forth with the repair guys, it now ticks quietly away and keeps flawless time. I can go to the car after several days of it sitting in the garage (which, nowadays, with my new engine, that doesn't happen very often!!LOL) and it is still 'on the money'. When that is a feature in most old cars that is non-functional and nobody even EXPECTS them to work, it's kind of a point of pride to have one in an 80-year-old automobile that keeps time!!! Chris

What wre the amps on a 1937 c115 car battery

94 amp hours but the kicker is there is no direct conversion between the old amp hour rating and todays cold cranking amps rating. The best description from one of the battery sites is amp hours is how long a battery can supply a certain current and CCA is the maximum amount of current a battery can supply for a short but specified time.

If you are replacing your battery my philosophy is find the battery group that will physically fit in your enclosure and then buy the largest CCA battery available that will fit. On a six it might be overkill but the cost between a good battery and a cheap underpowered one is minimal compared to the aggravation if you buy one even a little bit too small.

Here is the original six battery info from the Sept 1, 1936 service letter which contains all the 37 mechanical specs.

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