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Silly question... But, since they never worked I have to ask. But in my 48 Custom 8 is the dash lights back lite in red? I rewired my car and put all new bulbs in and as always there were a couple of quirks. Finally got everything except the dash lights to work. But this a.m. going to the gym I saw a glow of red behind the clock. I was wondering if that was what I was suppose to have.

The instrument lighting on the 22nd/23rd series was accomplished by using black light filters around the bulbs and fluorescent paint on the pointers and dials. The paint does lose its ability to 'glow' over time, particularly the pointers.

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Thanks

jsa,
I need to rewire my Series 23 sedan and need any advice you can give me. How do I relace the wires behind the dash? Do you remove the instrument panel and work from the steering wheel side or do you crawl on your back under the dash?
Fred

Fred, depends a lot on your agility, willingness to be in uncomfortable positions for a long time, and on your eyesight. Certainly much easier if you remove the dash. If you do it with the dash in place, you might consider removing the front seat - you'll not need to be as much of a contorsionist.

Agree with O_D. Don't know exactly how much you're planning to replace but think you'll find the wire very stiff and brittle. Trying to disconnect one, bend it or remove the loom fabric to get to a fresh part will probably result in more of the old rubber coming off on the one you are working on or another adjacent wire making the problem worse. I would think disconnecting and labeling all, then remove the dash so you can expose everything at once will make the situation much easier as well as less strain on the back and eyes.

Also it's the hidden unseen wiring that causes shorts and issues. Best to pull the dash and fully inspect if it has never been done since it rolled out of East Grand Ave.

I removed the dash.. I can say I that is the best way and it wasn't that hard to do either.

I did my friend's 23rd series dash - removed to have it wood-grained. I used price tags with strings attached to label each wire as I disconnected it. There was no color coding left - just dusty disintegrating cloth insulation.
The labels helped tremendously when I went to reconnect everything several weeks later.

Randy,
That message gives me hope. I plan to remove the dash and gages because the woodgraining is gone and some gages do not work. Also I plan to replace the radio with one that works as long as I am in the area. I am not sure how hard that is with the seat in place. I will consider the suggestions to remove the seat. I am 71 years old and cannot move like I once did.
As I did on my 34 Nash I plan to label each wire as I disconnect it and try to pull the entire harness out without cutting it. Then I will compare it to the new one and see what may be different. Differences should be corrected before sticking the loom though the firewall. My car has been "repaired" in some places but the new wiring is typically a modern plastic insulation rather than the original cloth type. The differences due to the new wires will be ignored.
Also I am installing some accessories while I am doing the wiring. These are the fog lights, the backup light, and the underhood light. The factory loom apparently did not include the wires for the accessories so additional wires need to be added. I can buy the original type wire from Restoration Supply here in San Diego.
Many thanks to everyone for their help on this project.