Was trying to figure out if my gas cap is a vented cap. To me it seems like it would be. What with the small notch and channel that follows the outer perimeter. See pictures of the arrow pointing to the notch with gasket on and without it. When researching I've come across that possibly the letter A, meant it was vented and the letter B was not vented. I could be wrong.

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Yeah, I took mine apart not too long ago and R&R'd it. Works great now. However upholsterer moved the cable to where it had right curve and the inner cable broke at the end. Just need to replace that and get it going again.

With the key inserted you need to rotate the cylinder and then push in the retaining clip. Pull the cylinder out while holding retaining clip pushed in with the cylinder turned. I do not remember for sure if the cylinder goes to ON or ACC position but based on photo I took years ago think it is to ON.

You should be able to see the edge of brass retaining clip in one of the openings when cylinder is turned.

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Getting a good picture of the EE-22 heat defector proved problematic. Best way was probably to either remove the carburetor from the engine, or remove the hood, air cleaner and distributor and photograph from above and the far side. I wasn't ready to do either.

So here's a photo which I hope will be helpful. I would describe the deflector as follows: a 3-sided box, 2 vertical panels at 90 degrees to each other, and a bottom panel. The two vertical or side panels partially cover the front of the fuel bowl (as shown in my photo) and the side of the bowl facing the exhaust manifold. The lower panel covers in part the base or floor of the fuel bowl nearest the exhaust manifold.

I hope this is helpful.

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23rd series custom 8. I just got a new ignition switch and was intending to remove the lock cylinder (have key) from the old switch and fit it to the new one, but don't seem to be able to get the cylinder out of the switch. tried poking paperclips and small drills into the two holes in the body, but no effect.

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Yes, I do see it in the photo that Howard shared.

There is only 1 bolt in it, towards the front of that arm, should there be 2? The bolt that is in it is seized, it's too far from the draft tube! LOL

I gave it shot of penetrating oil and will put a little heat on it to see if I can get it to break free and not just break.

Thanks for the feedback!

I remember reading some excellent Torsion-Level system diagnostics somewhere on this site but cannot find it now. Can someone please provide a link?

They did away with the 5th shock, but retained a rear track bar on the 127" wheelbase jobs. You can even see the left end of it in the factory photo if you look close.

So tighten your bolts and enjoy the stability.

Thank you for the info for the keys. Big help. Joe

No, no Henney manuals were made as far as I know but this piece is definitely not Henney. They had a full cross-over with linkages stabilizer (I just replaced all the bushing in mine) but nothing like this one and, unfortunately, i don’t recall if my two 1954 Patricians have it or not.