Ahhh if only you lived on the east coast, there would be those who would snap it up inna jiffy!! Know you hate parting with such a beautiful piece of art. Someone will get it though
Good luck!🍀

1. the restoration vs refurbishment? status: since many vehicles when they become bona fide "antique" usually 25 years, some of the items needed for restoring are not longer available nor made, paint being the most obvious. Eventually NOS parts become unobtainium or too costly to merit use in an average vehicle.
How can we talk about "restoring" such a vehicle that's say more than 50 years old, and about the only way to resurrect is to repair and replace with whatever material is available or possibly upgrade? Isn't it better to refer to that as a refurb? eg: early exterior seating using vinyl vs original leather. Upholstery by a local shop with off the shelf fabrics - can be quality, too. Replication is another term, but has too many other connotations, in other genre.
Or do we need a new term for these? As we've progressed in the age of automobiles to a new convergence, shrinking # of survivors and parts. Any 2 cents...
2. I've been thinking of building a Packard weathervane(out of copper) and was trying to narrow the field to the most iconic or recognized. I could use the packard font and just letters, etc. Obviously a '49 ain't no eye catch'n winner. I thought about just a grill or front end or something. Suggestions welcome. What happens when the brain gets old, if worries about stuff it should not or get involved in.

I would back flush the radiator to remove any possible scale in the system that would block the tubes. While you’re at it, back flush the heater core as well. And unless you know its good, replace the thermostat as well as it could be faulty. I’ve seen new ones that were stuck closed.
Doc

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Hello and Happy Motoring!
Found an oil leak at my fuel pump yesterday and suspect the mounting bolts are loose as the pump was quivering but the engine was smooth idling. Watched a nifty vid on lever shocks and how to service them and will try to video me servicing mine on my Golden Anniversary std 8. Have decided to go with a 20w oil as it was what was used in the video I watched. I had no Idea there would be a revolution in front shock absorbing technology in 1950s. I found the fill plug on the shocks and will top off mine this week, will let you the results later this week. Any advice is always welcome. 😃 I’ve really thrown myself into learning all I can about this vehicle. I have a question though about the rear shocks it seems the car rides lower in the rear an find myself dragging the bumper guard if the angle is too steep to Avoid
Doing that . Could air shocks be installed to raise the rear height? I wonder….🤔

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Sorry Howard. I meant Generator.

Was just in Wisconsin with the Studebaker folks and loved it there. Will happily go back and explore some more. Oh, and eat more cheese curds.

It's been months and I never did hear back from Crin.

Years ago when I was restoring our LeBaron A/W Town Car, I made a crude drawing as I disassembled the door handles.
I am not an artist, but hopefully this sketch will give you a basic understanding of how it is constructed.
The exterior door handles of the 1937 Super-Eight and Twelve are the same.
It is not on my drawing, but as I recall, the is a screw in the end of the shaft. You have to gently pry off the upholstery to access it.
The collar has a small hole in it which allows you to put a drill bit in and unscrew it from the female receptacle which is screwed onto the body.
The collars have been reproduced and used to be advertised in theCCCA Bulletin. Later this week I will try to find an old issue with contact info.

Important to use a good plater who will not grind out the detail.

Bob

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You said alternator in your last post. Please confirm we are speaking generator and not alternator. If generator, to narrow it down farther to the generator or regulator as a likely suspect, while doing the measurements make one more test.

Connect the meter leads at the battery terminals so you are measuring exactly what is going on with the battery. With the car just sitting you should have 6.3v with a fully charged battery. Start the car and run it at fast idle. Autolite specs say over 920 rpm. The voltage across the battery should go up to 7.4v if all is working and adjusted correctly. If the voltage goes up when at fast idle then the generator/regulator is working properly. At slow idle it should read around 6.3 v again.

If voltage does not go up make sure accessories are off and doors are closed so all bulbs are off. Use a small jumper wire to MOMENTARILY ground the field wire at the regulator while you watch the meter. When the connection is made the voltage should immediately jump higher -- maybe as much as 10 or more volts. If it does the generator is working and something is wrong with the regulator. If voltage does not change then most likely the generator is at fault but you can repeat the test by grounding the field terminal at the generator to rule out a bad field wire or connection. Only have the field grounded long enough to take the measurement as the increased voltage puts a strain on the battery and any components energized.

I will report on my findings. Thank you so much for your advice. Question; The tests you want me to perform, are on the Alternator, or Voltage regulator?.

Dave O