I have one on my 37 to assist getting the system primed after sitting for a time. (like months......)
I used a single pull double pull momentary/off/on switch, (SPDT )
This allows me to push the momentary contact to prime the carb and release then if needed I can place it in contant run .
It is powered from main power ( forget actual point) but the car is equipped with a battery cut off switch.

A little more headway today with my brother’s help in getting the tailpipe fixed and made round again. The old muffler was rusted on so tightly that I had to air-chisel it off a couple years ago which distorted it. My brother was a machinist too but worked on larger parts (in my machining days, it was on tiny things mostly for hard drive read-write head manufacturer) so he’s good at this sort of thing and got it round in short order!

Then I got back to the driveshaft, pressing out the u-joints from the better of the two shafts that I have for it. These fought me a little but in the end I got them out but then had a surprise that the back most one was smaller than the other! The Parts List shows all three the same so it made no sense and the other spare drive shaft has the proper ones on both ends. Then I remembered, this driveshaft came from my other 1951 into which someone had put a Dana rear axel and was the reason I bought this ambulance to get it for a transplant. The Dana axle is tiny so whoever did the swap likely also changed the driveshaft yoke! Back to the drawing board tomorrow.

Attach file:

---

  289E3478-1089-47DF-8C30-F9634DB134D6.jpeg (137.86 KB)


  C02CB638-3E98-4B63-8F2A-4758DEF5EE1B.jpeg (101.73 KB)


  FA7C8570-4EDB-4EF2-A0AA-5277F67D14CD.jpeg (125.97 KB)

Hey just thought I’d let folks know, I did eventually figure out the answer to this question with help from a member here who reached out to me. The earlier discussion about body numbers (312 for Custom 8 Runabout vs 382 for the Eight Runabout) was correct. I eventually found the number (with the help of this member) under the rumble seat pictured below. As you’ll see it is in fact an Eight, not a Custom 8, and the number (382-118), along with a September 1928 original sales date, would make me believe it was probably very late in the run for the Fourth Series.

Attach file:

---

  29027159-D543-49DC-9A6E-7124AB097084.jpeg (490.72 KB)

Here is an early WDO sheet that I believe shows that area in photo 8 and the check ball going in the hole. Don't see the other item but maybe it came after this sheet was published.

Attach file:

---

carter_wdo_manual_39_later 2.pdf Size: 1,963.54 KB; Hits: 87

Yes but whatever circuitry 30 is powering will still need to come from somewhere. It will need to be isolated and be sure no other connection to 30 is hidden somewhere. 30 would need to be a ground and only connecting to the contact common for relay to work with the stock system.

Maybe whatever else 30 powers could come from 86 at the same time as the trigger signal but if not, then need to figure a way to power the electronics. That could probably be done by adding a small wire to power the electronics and connect it to the light green terminal on the switch box. The pivot contact would still work the trigger at 86 to start the timing.

I believe that is the accellerator pump check valve. If the accellerator pump nozzle goes on the threaded hole near the red line, i believe the needle is dropped into the hole, point down, and the ball is dropped on top it, then the pump nozzle is installed using the correct screw. The purpose of the needle and ball is to prevent carburetor vacuum for syphoning gasoline through the accellerator pump nozzle at higher speeds. (That's what I think it is. A good diagram of your carburetor would be helpful, if one can be found.)

Can someone help me locate the correct place for this ball & valve?
I have not been able to find any definitive on the interweb...
See pics, Thanks!

Attach file:

---

  P1014418.JPG (59.88 KB)


  P1014419.JPG (274.61 KB)

30 can be de soldered.

Its the metal case of the relays

Then cut foil so relay is isolated.

EDIT

one thing I'm not sure about is start timer.
Cause it only need to be momentary power

Gar,
That is definitely not a 1928 526.
However, I think you could make your header from two straight pieces, splicing them together in the middle and rasping down to get the contour and curved edges.
You would then have to route out the noches for the latch mechanisms.

Pretty much all of those cars cannot have the original paint anymore. Especially in those years, many of the new color formulations did not last as long as the more traditional ones before.

Ross told me a story one time, he knew someone back in the day that had a 56 Patrician with the copper tone paint, that needed repainted in just a couple years of ownership, and had other annoyances like excessive water-spotting after the rain.