1951 288. Exhaust valves before and after cleaning.

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Looking to convert my 35 senior clock to quartz. Has anyone done the this or have an idea about it. Thanks Dell

It seems that leaks mostly come from the large case seal which is simply a huge square O-ring. I added it to the parts cross reference, FYI.

What would be interesting would be to find a 48-50 gauge and compare the two current requirements and ohm readings of the heaters. They are both King-Seeley heater actuated bimetal strip gauges but the 48-50 gauges that use the bimetal sender with another heater in series that provides on/off pulses are powered directly from the battery via the ign sw so run at 6.3 to 7.3 volts. The 51 and later gauges use an instrument voltage regulator that provides a supply that is called a constant voltage (even though it is pulsing) where the pulses are averaged and is specified as 5v. Those gauges use the changing 73-10 ohm straight resistance sender. The only thing I can definitely say about the gauges is one type sender does not provide a proper reading on the other type gauge.

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There are fewer and fewer shops around that have the expertise to work on classic and vintage cars. Mechanics that plug in a vehicle to a computer, and then replace whatever parts it tells them to are of no help to us. I have found that I'm better off to just develop the skill I need and work on my car myself. So far it's worked out okay, but I haven't tackled any serious body work yet. Unfortunately space, money, time and skill are in short supply around my place as well.

Just a heads up. As I had no patience to wait. Our venerable vendor actually sent me 1.00 OD x 0.625 ID copper crush washers under part #433248. For $5.00 a washer. Today I received my copper crush washers from fittings.space/ dynapex. They were 7/8 OD x 0.625 ID and 0.75 cents a washer. These were an exact match to what I removed. Like Potato said, I hope this does not make a difference as long as torqued properly. The bolts do have blue monster PTFE seal tape on them. I drove in multiple parades this weekend. So far no leaks. Fingers crossed.

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Swap and leave them. If the amp meter reads backwards, it because the wires are hooked up backwards.

For example on my car, it's now 12v negative ground, so I had to swap the wires so it would read correctly.

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Called these guys. I'll bring my 2 radiators to them maybe next week to test.

I did some testing on my Clipper instrument cluster. Both the gas and temp gauges started to move with 0.05A and negligible voltage drop. They read completely pegged up the scale at 0.22 and 0.26 amps with about a 4 volt drop.

Of course, some quick math with Ohm's law gives that you would need a 4 ohm sender for the gauge to read this high. So what about our 13 ohm senders?

On my fuel gauge I found that if I tweaked the sender internal arm to read 10 ohms high instead of 13, it ends up right on the dot.

However, I attached this adjusted gauge to my temp gauge and it made it read only 80% of the way up. For whatever reason, the fuel gauge has some overshoot with respect to the dot labels, but the temp gauge does not. You can actually see this; the fuel gauge right dot is to the left of the F, but the temp gauge right dot is to the right of the H. And yes this is from a straight on perspective as well as a driver's perspective.

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All 4 windows are in and working!
The rear windows make a lot of noise but the movements are fairly smooth.
No clue when I will get the stainless trim in due to the repair job on the fuzzies that I mentioned before.

I emailed SMS late last week and sent me samples quickly. I got them today.
Since there is a 3-hour time difference between me and SMS I went ahead and called them today and placed an order. Hopefully, it will not take the projected six to eight weeks to complete but if it does, it does.

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