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Does service data indicate the end cover wear tolerance, or a lapping procedure to restore the cover finish?

dp

Having picked up some copies of the factory drawings, I'm able to give some data:

Shaft dia was .4930 to .4935
Bore dia was .4950 to .4960
Note that this applies only to the driving shaft. The driven gear was on a dowel pin, 440601, which was a press fit into another .495–.496 hole.

You will note that this is a 1.5 to 3 thou drive shaft tolerance from the factory; yet no allowance past 3 was given in the service checks.

The two gears were identical except for the obvious differences and bore dia.

The gears when mounted in the pump have an end clearance per the factory drawings of 2 to 6 thou, yet strangely the service manual gives no more than 3 thou as acceptable. I have a 1953 and 1956 oil pump body drawing and this was not changed between them. My gear drawing is from 1953. Though both the "1953" drawings were revised through 1955 with no change in this regard. In addition I have another oil pump assembly drawing from 1956 that specifically gives 2 to 6. I can only assume they may have been selectively assembled to keep the gap down, but that would still result in a typical gap of 4.

The gear bore is 1.500–1.501 and the gear OD is 1.4945–1.6945. Again, the service manual gives no allowance for wear, specifying no more than 5 thou.

Hope someone finds this interesting and that the Studebaker museum enjoys my "donation". Let me know if you have any questions that I could look up for you. I don't have EVERY drawing just the most important drawings.

Spray the inside of the hose with brakleen, it will slide on.

Regarding parts cross reference:

I stumbled upon this ancient thread on the AACA forums for 55-56. I imagine some of the info is still good.

I don't have time to dig through it now but it might be useful in the future

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/28405-55-56-xref/

I’m revisiting my carburetor issue where the following happens…

About two to three minutes AFTER I shut off the car, I get fuel bubbling out around the accelerator shaft. The fuel is NOT boiling out…it’s not hot to the touch.

So, I called Daytona Parts to talk to them about getting a rebuild kit or having them rebuild. I spoke with Tim and he was SUPER helpful and spent some time with me to talk through what is happening and what may be needed.

When I described what was happening, he asked if my fuel pump had been rebuilt recently. It has been. And, when I thought about it, this issue didn’t come about until after the fuel pump was rebuilt.

He said this issue is actually very common after fuel pumps are rebuilt and the first thing to try was to lower the fuel level in the bowl by adjusting the float.

Here is what he said happens and why… In short, he said the fuel level in the bowl is too high and I need to adjust the float. He said there is seal in the fuel pump valve that was originally phenolic/fiber materiel. He said this material didn’t make a great seal and residual pressure when the car was shut off would be relieved through this seal back to the pump. Then, he said that pumps that are rebuilt today use a rubber seal that creates a very good seal. Therefore, the pressure can only be relieved through the carburetor. Apparently, the reason it takes two or three minutes for this to start happening after the car is shut off is that it takes some time for the temperature to rise (no fan etc…) to cause the fuel to over flow. He said I could confirm this by removing the air cleaner and looking into the carburetor.

So, after a drive, I shut off the car and removed the air cleaner. At this point no fuel was bubbling out and no fuel was going into chambers. Then, about two minutes later, I saw fuel overflowing in the chambers and at that same time, I saw fuel bubbling out of the accelerator shaft.

So, I’ll trying adjusting the float level slightly. Time said to just make a very small adjustment and see if it improves and that it would be an iterative process.. The key is no large adjustments.

I’ll post a follow up once I work up the nerve to tackle yet another item I know little about. I love how much I’m learning along the way!

I’ve known Clint since he was a little boy and lived with his family just a few blocks away from me. In fact, his father Doug was the one through whom I bought my house with its 1500 sq ft garage where I and my 22 cars lived for nearly 30 years!

Hey Kevin, just checking in on the wiring harness you went with. How’s it holding up? Do you wish you’d have used the 28 circuit over the 21 circuit? My son and I are getting ready to do the same electrical overhaul and wondered your thoughts after all is done.

Pricing is unfortunately way out of wack.

If it were a 2-seat roadster, Phaeton, 4dr all-weather convertible, maybe it would be worth 15k in my opinion. Knowing you'll spend, Paint 25K, upholstery 20K, engine 20K, misc. tires, wiring, chroming 20K, all for a 60K car. which by the way is a declining market. His heirs will think it's worth 20K also. It's all unfortunate.

Thank-you for all the replies, I will be focusing on looking for another 1934-1937 Packard. The present owner will not budge on the price of 20K, and besides the engine work that it will require in addition to paint interior and chrome. I will look around what else might come for sale. I also found 2 shops that would grind and polish the crank if I needed that service, around 800.00. That is also being rebalanced. I have the ability myself to tear it down and re-assemble, but if the owner won't reduce the price, there is probably a better venture out there.
Thank-you all again for your comments and help, and yes, I live in Michigan.

It looks like it has been well-protected from sun damage, but there may be moth damage to upholstery. Fabric that old probably wouldn't stand up to normal use, but you'd have excellent pattern material, and the seat springs and stuffing are probably still good. Other than some yellowing, the plastics look good. It's rare to see a steering wheel that old that isn't cracked.