Thank BK/Howard.
All good stuff, and I will dig in. As I was reviewing drawings, I noticed that my generator does not have this wire attached to the frame. I did not get under, as I didn't have time, but will later today.

Is this required? Could this be the issue? All other wires are correct.

Nope I was just doing single flare. Need to see how to do a double flare... not sure if my kit comes with the dies needed.

If you get desperate and cannot find any better options, I know folks who have bought 53-54 sedan windshields and had them cut shorter to fit the 51-54 HT/Conver.

The 53-54 Sedans have the same square corners that the 51-54 HT/Converts do. The 51-52 Sedans have rounded corners.

Not that being said, I know where there is a complete basket case at 53 Mayfair in Southern Calif. for sale. It was taken apart for full paint before the owner died. The car was painted, the drive line fully rebuilt, and the seats and door cards reupholstered. But it is currently a bare-painted shell waiting for full reassembly. 99% sure there is a good windshield there with it.

Mike Chirco at Tucson Packard indicated that he recently had some specially made so you should be able to buy them new. Failing that, the difference between yours and those on the sedan is the height so some have had luck cutting down a sedan piece to size which some shops can do.

Update: As BigKev pointed out, I wasn't very clear. It is only the '53 and '54 sedan windshields that can be cut down to make one for a convertible or hardtop due to the rounded corners that the 1951 and 1952 sedans had on their glass.

Thank you, that's handy to know. I presume that you know that brake lines must be double-flared which I believe is per DOT or maybe one of the other federal safety agencies.

Just throwing this out there...been having zero luck so far.

Looking for a front windshield in good condition for a 52 Mayfair Sports Coupe. According to part number this should interchange with 51-54 hardtops and convertibles.

I need a few other things too, so I would consider buying a whole parts car if the price is right.

Thanks in advance.

Looks like $135.

I have found the issue. The top front edge protrudes too much and is more on the passenger side than the driver's.

Here is the driver's side. Everything, including the silver Sharpie line to the edge, needs to be removed.




Here is the passenger side:




I marked the glass to leave a 5/16" stick out and have that even with the top leading edge of the bottom guide. I dropped the glass back off at the place that did them. He is going to fix them up and have them ready tomorrow for me.

I went out and looked at mine and I cannot even see the glass protrude down in the channel even hitting it with a very bright light, I even tried to see if I could get a refraction shining the light into the side of the glass at the front to see if I could pick up the forward lip that way, so I have no way to measure it. I think 5/16" would be tons, I have a feeling mine is even less than that, it sure does not hit the back of the channel, the stainless trim rides right against it on both doors. But as we all know, my car is by no way original as I had to have all glass made. Maybe someone else has one apart they can throw a mic on to get an accurate measurement.
Bob J.

You will know your car was built at some point after that last date you find on the car. If you can find records for a serial number that is right before yours, that probably help narrow the field.

My car was very late production in 54. The engine has a cast date of 8/15/54 and I think my heater box has a 8/17/54 date stanp on it.

Figure after an engine is cast, it still has to go through various steps and processes before it is turned into an engine ready to go into a vehicle. So my car must have been very late August or early Sept.