Is your channel rubber covered on the back side and felt on the inside and edges?

It's hard to tell exactly from the photos.

Restoration Specialties has this:

8L Rigid Piling Lined Rubber Covered.







Which looks dimensionally correct. I want to make sure the base isn't too thick, which would push the glass to the rear.

I had to get mine from Max Merritt as the car came with one I think was off a lawn mower! However I did something similar as tsherry with the parking brake cables. I tapped the casing up and down lightly with a hammer to break the rust lock. Once I got them to move some I hooked the end up to a variable speed drill and slowly turned the wire inside the casing, make sure you use lots of lubricant, and turn in the direction of any winding if applicable (my throttle wire is a simple wire but yours may be a fine cable so be aware).
Holding the casing in a vise, (gently as to not crush/distort it, just enough that it holds unmovable).By slowly turning the wire and adding spray lube and moving the wire back and forth in the casing full smooth action was restored, and I too had a bench full of rust and dirt. Very satisfying!
I used fine sand paper on the wire as I got it to protrude out of both ends of the casing too, to further allow smooth action and applied white grease like the speedometer cable.
A plater can restore the nickel finish too if you like. Nice to have as much original equipment as possible on these old girls.

Thanks, Bob, that confirms my suspicion. My channel is wrong and that's probably most of the issue. I'll source a new piece that should work better.

Good morning Big Kev,
Mine is fully assembled but I do remember getting the glass back and having a gut drop because I was worried there was not enough glass protruding from the front edge to properly seat into the channel.
Upon assembly this proved not to be the case. I am sorry I did not take any pictures of the window assembly before installation but I took some shots this morning.
The channel completely hides the glass edge now. The channel whisker groove is .350" deep. I recall less than a 1/4" of glass protruding ahead of the stainless trim piece. I remember it seemed too little at the time.
As you can see in the image below, the stainless on mine also touches the whisker channel.
At least you don't have to get the glass stretched!!
I just remembered I still have a 6' length of the channel I got in the Kanter kit, (I think they ship enough for a 4dr or something). I have attached its picture too for reference. It measures 0.550" across and .435" deep, with the aforementioned .350" deep channel in the 0.435" depth. You are most welcome to this if you need it.
The glass shop I used did not use the tape, but rather used urethane sealant to set the glass, I know, not original but highly effective.
Bob J.

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The rear clips are longer.

Here is the front right clip:




And the right rear clip:




Notice the rear one is longer at the back portion. So perhaps someone used a rear on your front doors? Just spitballing here.

You might be able to tell the difference because the rear looks like it has a smaller tang piece on the end. Well, at least on these reproduction ones, it does.

It is kind of a pain, but if you take off inside window garnish molding and roll the window down all the way, you can see the back of the door handle and the clip. Just to verify, it is fully seated with the "knobs" on the back of the handle in the middle of those retainer barbs.

If the end of those clips breaks off, which is common when trying to remove clips that are rusty, rolling down the window and removing the molding is the old way to access those clips so you can drive the out with a long flat screw driver.

It could also be possible that someone in the past used the incorrect clips, left to Right, etc., or modified a rear door clip. They are all different. For example, the Sedan uses four different clips. I can't remember if it's the front or the back, but one clip is longer because of the distance from the handle to the door edge.

Looking at this picture, which I took when I got the windows back from the glass shop, the glass doesn't appear to be sticking out further than the guide loop at the bottom.

I think it has to do with the window channel I chose to use on the front edge. Perhaps its base is thicker, and/or it is not fully seating flush in the division bar channel.

What size or part number window channel did others use for this on a 115/120 Convertible?

Acolds - it looks like you posted while I was typing. Thanks for the picture, that's exactly what I needed. Yours is sitting nice and tight inside the door edge. I can't get either side to do that. The door handle hardware is in the way. Is your rubber trimmed to allow the hardware to stick through?

Kev - I didn't realize that clip was supposed to be pushed in all the way. I'll see if I can do that. The driver's side does not have the clip seen on the passenger side, but there are still two prongs sticking out that prevents full seating.

-Kevin

Make sure your clip is fully seated. It seems to me that it's sticking out a bit.

Thanks Don and Kev. I'll give it some time and see how they compress.

Does anyone have good pictures of how this upper piece is supposed to sit? I know there is a metal piece that should be there, and I'll have to fabricate it. But I'm not understanding how the rubber is supposed to sit with the door handle mechanism in the way.