I would use undercoating but best to apply it after the body has been reattached to the chassis as I believe the factory did.

The spray applicators look much like a paint gun except that the nozzle is a round tube. I have one but have never used it although as I recall it was quite inexpensive.

The Flame Thrower is Pertronix and I have one in my 1965 Cadillac along with their pointless ignition. Always very dependable.

Sure looks nice!!

Just my but I think the undercoat material might be formulated and applied a bit thicker than bedliner so would probably give a bit more of a sound deadening effect. I know the stuff that was on my 56 was certainly thick and well adhered. That brings the question on how each is applied and would either require special application tools that might be expensive for one time use and could be a determining factor. If your area salts the roads I would definitely add something but unless you are also going to add a rubberized sound mat to the floor on the inside then whichever is the thicker coating would probably be better to lessen any drumming from the sheetmetal.

Got the underside of the body painted
Question for the forum: would you reapply an undercoating or say the spray on box liner? Or leave it as it left the factory?

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Replaced my leaking/failing NAPA coil with a Flame Thrower. Initial impression is that my car starts and runs better than ever.

Before I installed my door panels I made sure all the windows, latches, etc. were cleaned and working well.

But after assembling the doors I have a couple of windows that get stiff about 3/4 of the way down. I think they are binding and that there is probably adjustment on the bottom of the window track. Is that correct? I wasn't able to find anything in the service manual.

Also, I'm thinking that I should remove the window trim and door panel, reinstall just the window trim and then adjust the window tracks to remove any binding.

Anyone have experience with this??




And I have to say, that 71 year old door panel looks amazing!!!

A brake drum lathe at a sale might be a worthwhile investment....
Also: Valve grinding equipment
Shop press

Jay Leno did all four wheels to disc on a late ‘50s Imperial which has the taper rear so I’m sure it can be done. Where my Oregon shop is near the tiny rural town of Terrebonne, there is one little old-time shop that can turn drums and it never occurred to me that it was getting to be a scarce service!

I guess cautionary tale or not you could look on the bright side. At least you had 20 shops you could call and all probably within a driveable or relatively short distance for one day service. Maybe if you were still in LA or Riverside area you would be as fortunate but I suspect here in the Central Valley we'd be lucky to find 20 period -- and probably most of those are 2-3 hours north and don't bother with anything not Ford or GM. Like chrome shops, another dying specialty. As scarce as good used drums are starting to be and now a shortage of shops still working on them maybe all the people that have asked or have committed to disc conversions are on to something after all. Fronts are covered but anyone figured out rotors on a Packard tapered hub rear axle yet?

I have a 56 senior axle that would be suitable. I have to extract it from the pile so I can read the tag and tell you the ratio. Perhaps over the weekend.