Used. Make offer.

cf.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/STB/56T-20.pdf

cf., group 5.0112:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/partslist/viewplate.php?cat=20&PlateNumber=28&partslist=1955-1956

Loosening the nut, then retorqueing it won’t hurt anything. Check the torque later after a few warm and cool-downs.

The bumper guards and name plate look nice. I know nothing about 1937 Packards but the guards’ orientation seems odd. Is that the way they are supposed to be?

I'm not sure what you are indicating. Before I posted this to the general forum, I did a complete workup on two Parts Cross-Reference entries (way down the list alphabetically, termed "V12 Fan Belt") with crossover #'s, original Part #'s, dimensions. Since you cant edit things on this forum after theyre posted, I had to create the 2nd one.

?????

For these types of things, it would be most helpful to add them to the cross reference on the side bar. The essential info is the Packard number, the current part number, and what year/model is applicable.

I would add it but I know very little about these models.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts/

Quote:

Unfortunately I barely have time to work on my car, let alone make presentations. These posts are about as good as it gets right now. But I do have a bazillion pictures on my phone! LOL

I dug into the depths of Mordor (33-36 Packard Shop Manual) to finally get actual dimensions for Packard V12 Fan Belts (not just the Parts Book 237887 or 239811 Numbers listed in the dumbed-down 37-39 Shop Manual). See my crossover info at:
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts/index.php?cat=20&catname=ENGINE

Then finally located the Gates Crossover Belt Number: TR24500 at:
https://www.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/knowledge-center/resource-library/catalogs/gates_passcarlighttruck_vintage_4312050_2016.pdf

Amazing that such basic service info was so elusive...hopefully I save someone else some time.

Able to get over to the car this weekend to do a couple of things.

Got the rear bumper painted with the first coat. Second coat should clean it up nice.

Before



After



Also put on the air cleaner. I got the support on the cleaner, but now I am questioning the placement on the block. Looks like i will need to remove the nut that is also holding the support for the horn. Before I do, i want to confirm, this is ok, and I am not going to start a sequence of things, and put something into an "imbalance"?

Do I have any concerns if I loosen the nut and attach the support arm?

I actually do own an ozone machine, I’ll toss that in there for a while. I got mine from Amazon a few years back, was under $200 if I recall correctly. Works pretty good, had used it in my plow truck that was also riddled with mice when I acquired it.

you mentioned that the car sat up for 12 years - did you drain and remove the fuel tank? my "37 had been sitting up for 15 years- I removed 3 pounds of rust before having the tank repaired and sealed. It does not take much rust to get into the seat of the needle valve and to result in a flooded carb - you mentioned fuel coming out of the bowl.
MY '34 Rolls 20/25 has an Auto Vac - if you choose to install one on your car make sure that the fuel supply line stays as far away as possible from the exhaust pipe as well as your gravity line down to the carb float bowl. Vapor lock can be a problem - heat combined with the suction pressure causes the fuel to vaporize in the supply line to the vacuum tank. Locating the Auto Vac on the firewall of a hot engine compartment seems to be a poor design to me - hope your hood is ventilated. Keep in mind that the addition of ethanol to fuel makes the EPA happier because the fuel burns hotter, ie exhaust pipes.

Hi Jon; I can send you the pictures when I return from a short vacation. I have to learn how to up load the new picture system or I will need your email. Dell