48-54 wheels are all the same underneath.

You could repolarize again. It will not hurt anything and may do some good.

If your voltmeter is reading correctly, with the numbers you reported in your first post in this thread I would wonder if the generator is actually charging or if the regulator is adjusted properly. Standing battery voltage for a charged battery at rest should be 6.3 volts across the battery terminals. When the engine is at fast idle or greater, if the generator is charging and regulator is adjusted properly the voltage produced is generally about 1 volt higher than standing battery voltage so I would expect you would be reading at least 7v and maybe a bit more instead of the 6.6 you reported..

A simple way to test generator or regulator is to momentarily short a terminal to ground. Note that in a working generator this will bypass the regulator and cause the voltage to jump higher by a few volts so try not to have any bulbs lit or accessories turned on when doing the test.

To do the test have the volt meter connected across the battery terminals to read the battery voltage before and during the test. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, then use a small jumper wire to MOMENTARILY short the F terminal on the regulator to ground. Make sure it is the F or FIELD terminal you are shorting. That should immediately cause the generator to go to full output and you should see the battery voltage jump up at least 2 or 3 volts. Only keep the terminal shorted long enough to read the meter. If voltage jumps up the generator is working but if there are still charging issues then the regulator is suspect. If there was no change when shorting at the regulator you could move the test jumper to the FIELD terminal on the generator and short again to rule out a wire issue. If still no change then the generator is suspect.

It is positive ground…

Cables in correct..I will test generator and regulator tomorrow..the only thing I did today was drop the ammeter to fix stuck needle..I did have to disconnect and reconnect both cables at ammeter and are secure..I did not polarize again after fixing the ammeters .. could that be an issue?

I wouldn't use teflon tape. The fill and drain plugs should have crush washers on them. You can find replacements at parts stores. Put new ones on and the leaks should stop.

Quote:

I'm not the expert on it, but my understanding is the wheels were essentially all the same. They are just hard rubber over a metal frame. The chrome pieces may be different, but they just pop out of the rubber (metal retainer clips may come with it) and can be put on a different wheel. I'm pretty sure the mounting is all the same as is the geometry of the wheel itself.

Anyone able to confirm or correct this?

Well yeah 5.8 is a dead 6V battery. Full charge is 6.4V.

Did you leave the key in Acc? Did you connect the battery positive or negative ground?

I believe it's called a carrier setscrew.

Hi KP, quick question, my 54 steering wheel is part #465223 (white). I have come across a 53 steering wheel part #426320 (black) with no chrome. Should this suffice?

Thank you everyone for your responses. To start, I plan on simply draining the gear oil and replacing with 2 quarts of Royal Purple Maxgear 85W-140 gear oil and 4 oz. of Bardahl gear oil stop leak and yellow teflon tape. The service manual mentions 4.25 pints of gear oil which translates to 2.125 quarts. The service manual also mentions checking the level but with what and how do you know? I was toying with MOPAR friction modifier as well. The fill hole and drain hole are pretty clear but what is the plug (red) in the upper left for? Thoughts are welcome.

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