Here's some "white smoke" from a 45F cold start.

It's important to remember that burning oil is SMOKE but condensation is VAPOR. The easiest way to tell is that if you look directly at the tailpipe, the vapor will be less visible, but smoke will be extra-visible.

HPH

A while back I put together a document that pulled together quite a bit of the Packard service information on the subject of rear axle bearing maintenance including the shimming process. That would be applicable to the rear axles that featured a single tapper bearing per axle and thrust block. That document did not address maintenance of the differential . . . as in setting the pinion bearing fit, or gear lash. If you think the axle bearing maintenance document will help, I’ll dig-out a copy.

dp

And don't forget that as you come to a stop your charging system stops working. So you will go from charging to discharging and back again each time you stop and go.

It feels weird for someone used to a modern car where the battery can stay charged at any engine RPM, but it works perfectly well as long as your electrical system is healthy.

Jimmyk

It is quite normal for the ammeter to twitch when you depress the brake. That’s a result of the small but instantaneous brake light current. Before I set-off on a drive I will look for that characteristic as an indication that the brake lights are likely working normally.

dp

Kevin and 53 Cavalier

If the combustion is complete there is approximately 20 ounces of water produced for each 16 ounces of fuel consumed. On start-up I doubt if the combustion is anywhere close to complete, and a good amount of free carbon (black smoke) will be present. Until the engine and exhaust system warms the liquid water and carbon will exit the tailpipe. The water is scrubbing the carbon out of the exhaust flow. After the engine and exhaust system achieves operating temperature the production of 20 oz of water per 16 oz fuel consumed is still valid but leaves the tail pipe as a hard to see vapor. Some amount of carbon will still be present but exits as small particles . . . again not something easily visible. Carbon and water coming out of the tailpipe shortly after a cold start is quite normal, it’s a direct consequence of chemistry. Hydrogen in the hydro-carbon fuel combining with the oxygen in the air . . . that’s all it is. If it is really cold the water in the exhaust will re-condense and appear as a ‘white smoke’ cloud.

dp

Got starter back and big difference…starts five times stronger …took for an hour and came back with battery charged at 6.4 volts so a major improvement…I believe the starter was causing major electrical draw…now that ammeter works..I do notice that when I press the brake pedal the ammeter moves left into the discharge area..when I let go of brake it returns to normal…maybe the brake switch is going? Brake lights work fine…anyway it appears my major problem has been solved so big thanks to all that helped in this forum….I have learned a lot..tks

Can anyone provide a picture of where the brake pedal retracting spring attaches to the frame? If no photo a description and/or dimensions of the area would be helpful.

Thanks,

Dezi

Thanks for posting something in writing and an actual factory recommendation on testing the vacuum side of fuel pumps.. That test should be made available in other forums because it holds true for all cars with dual action fuel pumps.

The typical dual action fuel pump vacuum side does not have the volume to operate the wiper at normal speed but the whole purpose of an aux supply is to make sure some vacuum is available to keep the blades moving. Any dual action pump should have enough vacuum power as measured in mm/hg to keep the motor moving slowly as the test suggests. Without the aux supply a large sustained load on the engine or sudden mashing of the accelerator to the floor if you want to pass some cars cuts engine vacuum to almost zero and blades will stop if something is wrong with the extra supply.

Someone sent me a document a while back on how to do a 53-55 rear end service, and now I can't find it. Does anyone know of this document?

Ok, I finally found some good images of the fuel mounted vacuum pump. This is off of a 1955 Nash Ambassador.

You can see the vacuum line from the manifold that goes to the vacuum pump, then that goes back up directly to the wipers.

The Nash manual also specifies a test for the vacuum pump. Assuming the wipers have good performance when the system is typically operated, then disconnecting the manifold vacuum line from the pump, such that it draws directly from the air, should still slowly operate the wipers.

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