Next question….

If I were to remove the radiator to get it to a shop, how does it come out? I know the front clip can come off as one assembly, but I don’t have the space or hoist to do that?

Also, If I go that route, then it opens the door give some attention to other items that I don’t know if they were tended to back in 2004. Such as, timing chain, timing pan seals, center steering bearing etc… The front motor mount was just replaced by Allen.

Any thoughts on this approach?

Regarding my fuel issue…I know my heat riser is out of commission….rusted/stuck and no counter weight. Based on what others have said, I’m pretty confident that it must be in the open position. But, I don’t know how to verify that?

Can someone tell me how I can verify?

Good chance to brag! I got this for Christmas from my Daughter Sam, she made it with her Cricut, a computer driven cutter, she did the artwork and then she cut it in a series of vinyls.
Bob J.

Attach file:

---

  goddess of speed 1.JPG (1,768.30 KB)

TxGoat - I have tightened the packing nut about a 1/2 turn. I do not see any sign of coolant leaking around the shaft or around the packing nut or pulley. I do need replace the lower hose as others have mentioned and have the pipe to do that, now. I do have a very small known leak in the radiator, but I must have a leak somewhere else as well. I’ll keep looking. I did find a radiator shop near by that looks very promising. I’ll give them a call on Monday.




BigKev - I’m not sure about phenolic inserts on the fuel pump bolts. The pump was just rebuilt by Terrell Machine.

Only left to is go around with a laser temp gun and try to figure out where it the hottest.

I'd temp check the pump as well as if that is getting heat soaked the volume of left fuel in the pump could expand and push fuel out the line.

Do you have the phenolic inserts on the fuel pump bolts?

It is puzzling.

Pipesarge, why not install a (Packard) 327 instead? Bolt in proposition, more power. While you're at it, get a four-barreled 327 from a 1953 or '54 donor. The 288 is a good mill, and will wind, but lacks even a two-barreled 327's oomph. Packard service departments made such changes, just as if you brought in a prewar 120 needing an engine, they'd replace the 282 with a 288.

While Olds, Cad, Chrysler, even Studebaker about to unveil or working on new ohv V-8s, a waning Packard addicted to fat War II defense contracts was more interested in more lucrative, less hassle govt. and jet engine business, so instead only offered a pair of revisions of their 1935 One Twenty engine. The 288 and 327 were excellent flathead straight eights for the benefit of today's hobbyists, if diminishing Packard's stature in their day. Take advantage of that situation.

It is a 3/8-24 bolt, about 1 1/2 long if I recall.

Take a 3/8 diameter punch, stick it into the heavy washer and use it as a lever to flip that washer out of its recess. Then you will need a 2 or 3 armed puller to pull the flange off. Screw your nice new 3/8 bolt into the shaft to keep the threads from being damaged as you horse the thing off.

You will discover that the original seal will have a death grip on the housing, and you may need to heat the end of the housing with a small torch to get it out.

Normally I remove the entire tailshaft assy and do the job on the bench as the frame is way too much in the way.

Re: coolant eak: Try tightening the water pump packing nut about 1/2 turn. Also look for leaks around water pump bolt heads. A radiator core leak will usually cause liquid to accumulate in the air passages in the core. Sometimes, when the engine is started, the fan draft will cause some accumulated coolant to be pulled into the fan and spread around. I'd look real carefully at the water pump and radiator chose connections before condemning the radiator. Be sure the overflow pipe isn't leaking where it exits the top radiator tank.
Your fuel problem is puzzling. The tiniest air leak between the fuel pump and the fuel tank can mimic vapor lock. Any fuel supply issue usually gets worse at higher temperatures.

Very cool. If you want your own:

https://patents.google.com/patent/USD114358

Hi,
The rear end of my transmission on my 56 Patrician is dripping ATF. I got a pinion seal, and removed the drive shaft. To my surprise, it seems that my universal joint flange bolt is completely missing. So now I have two questions.

1) What size bolt do I need?
2) How do I separate the flange from the rest of the transmission, so that I can install the new pinion seal?

Thanks!

John

Attach file:

---

  pinion.jpg (143.24 KB)